ON 20150402@12:38:29 PM at page: On a web page you were interested in at: http://massmind.org/Techref/uk/ac/york/cs/www-users/http/~fisher/software/index.htm#39728.3848958333 James Newton[JMN-EFP-786] removed post 39728.3848958333 |Delete 'linuxthefish@live.co.uk " Hello my name is Edmund Fisher can you email me linuxthefish@live.co.uk i was Tonys son. thanks, i loved him."
  • ' ON 20150402@3:28:07 PM at page: On a web page you were interested in at: http://techref.massmind.org/Techref/other/pond/tilapia/ich.htm#42096.644525463 James Newton[JMN-EFP-786] See also: http://www.fishlore.com/Articles/CuringIch.htm Although many aquarists use rather harsh chemicals to kill off Ich, I prefer more natural methods:

    1. Ich dislikes warm water, so I immediately bring the water up to 85-88 degrees.

    2. Since warm water cannot hold as much oxygen as cool water, I also increase the aeration by adding air stones. Another reason for added aeration is that ich infects the gills of fish as well as the outer skin. We only see ich on the skin of fish, and assume that's what's making them so sick. But my personal belief is that gill infestation by ich is the main cause of suffering and death in aquarium fish. I believe this damage to the delicate gill tissue suffocates fish, which either kills them outright or leads to lethal secondary infections. An increase in dissolved oxygen brought about by vigorous aeration may mean the difference in life or death to your fish.

    3. Along with a temperature change and added aeration, I usually add about one teaspoon of canning and pickling salt per gallon to the water to help the fish recover from the stress caused by the disease by reducing osmotic pressure, enabling the fish's own immune system to fight back. Salt is also harmful to ich.

    3. Water changes are extremely important in fighting ich outbreaks. Using a gravel washer, I do a 50 percent water change on a daily basis. This eliminates a great number of trophozoites and tomites from the aquarium.

    4. While I prefer not to use chemicals to treat any disease, developments over the past few years have left me little choice. The ich we contend with today are particularly virulent strains because, in my opinion, so many hobbyists, and, more importantly, pet shop owners/employees, have used chemicals and antibiotics instead of good hygiene to treat disease. What I refer to as hygiene is simply hard work: i.e. water changes, heat, added aeration and salt. When that is insufficient, I use Rid-Ich, which is a commercially available medicine consisting of zinc-free malachite green and formalin. I've found this to be highly effective in treating ich. ON 20150403@7:56:35 AM at page: On a web page you were interested in at: http://techref.massmind.org/Techref/other/pond/tilapia/ich.htm#42097.3309606481 James Newton[JMN-EFP-786] Says "My fish have had this before due to contamination. I put them in a quarantine ( My opinion is to not circulate this water through your system) tank and added salt (Sodium Chloride this can be found in the grocery store as canning salt or ice cream salt) all other salts have anti caking agents, iodine and other stuff you do not want to expose your fish too) to the water until it reached 3ppt. The breakdown on the formula is 2.75 teaspoons per gallon or 5.75 cups per 100 gallons. I would do partial water changes daily to keep your ammonia levels low and re add salt as necessary ie. put back what you removed in the water change. This should go on for 6 days to ensure you kill the ich during one of two stages in its cycle. To understand the cycle is how to kill it off. When a fish gets ich, it burrows under the skin and is protected by the fishes mucus layer and the salt will not effect it. It remains under the skin for 4 days while it feeds off your fish. during this time your fish will be trying to scratch them off by turning sidways and rubbing there sides (this is the tell tale sign your fish have ICH). After 4 days the casing the ich has been living in under the skin will rupture and they will fall to the bottom of the tank and go through phase two. As they drop from fish to the bottom of the tank is the first time you can kill them because they are exposed (short fall from fish to bottom of tank) When they fall to the bottom of the tank they will encase for a second time for approximately 24 hrs. At this stage they are multiplying and when the case ruptures they swarm (second and last chance during this life cycle to kill them) and the process begins again. Six days of salt bath will clear all infected fish if done properly. The picture you have provided does not appear to be ich in my opinion but with this information you will be able to treat your fish if it was the case. I have treated mine before with 100% success using this method." ON 20150403@3:16:26 PM at page: On a web page you were interested in at: http://www.massmind.org/Techref/inet/scamrbl.htm# James Newton[JMN-EFP-786] edited the page. Difference: http://www.massmind.org/techref/diff.asp?url=\Techref\inet\scamrbl.htm&version=8 ON 20150404@5:45:03 PM at page: On a web page you were interested in at: http://techref.massmind.org/Techref/os/win/xps.htm#42098.7396064815 James Newton[JMN-EFP-786] See also: http://alan.lamielle.net/2009/09/03/windows-7-nonpaged-pool-srv-error-2017/ Out of memory errors when copying from Win7 machine to shared drive on WinXP ON 20150406@2:49:44 PM at page: On a web page you were interested in at: http://www.massmind.org/Techref/io/stepper/PMinMOtoRAMPS.htm# James Newton[JMN-EFP-786] edited the page. Difference: http://www.massmind.org/techref/diff.asp?url=\Techref\io\stepper\PMinMOtoRAMPS.htm&version=1 ON 20150417@3:57:11 PM at page: On a web page you were interested in at: http://www.massmind.org/Techref/printer/hp/fsa.htm#42111.6647106481 James Newton[JMN-EFP-786] Says To use a USB FLASH drive in the M601M602 (and possibly other modern HP printers that support USB mass storage), just plug it into the front of the printer, then power cycle the printer (it won't show up as a storage device until then)

    It shows up as FSA drive 1: The following is known to work (but after init, and omits the pclResourceFile) 

    esc%-12345X@PJL
@PJL DISKLOCK = OFF
@PJL FSDOWNLOAD FORMAT:BINARY NAME="1:\pcl\macros\test1.mac" SIZE=32
esc&f21y0XTHIS IS A TESTesc&f1Xesc&f10X%-12345X
    @PJL DISKLOCK = OFF may or may not be necessary. ON 20150417@3:59:21 PM at page: On a web page you were interested in at: http://techref.massmind.org/Techref/language/pcls.htm#42111.6366203704 James Newton[JMN-EFP-786] removed post 42111.6366203704 |Delete ' %-12345X@PJL
    @PJL DISKLOCK = OFF
    @PJL FSDOWNLOAD FORMAT:BINARY NAME="1:\pcl\macros\test1.mac" SIZE=32
    &f21y0XTHIS IS TEST1&f1X&f10X%-12345X
  • ' ON 20150424@10:23:33 PM at page: On a web page you were interested in at: http://techref.massmind.org/Techref/logic/fulladder.htm#42118.9330092593 James Newton[JMN-EFP-786] See also: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lX-O3tyTncA A nice full adder demonstrator made with physical switches, LEDs, and EL wire "wires". ON 20150424@10:54:49 PM at page: On a web page you were interested in at: http://techref.massmind.org/Techref/microchip/bobmotion-gcode-vp.htm#42118.9547337963 James Newton[JMN-EFP-786] See also: https://blog.adafruit.com/2015/04/01/new-product-adafruit-usb-isolator-100ma-isolated-lowfull-speed-usb/ To add isolation, do so at the USB connection to the PC. ON 20150427@4:34:07 PM at page: On a web page you were interested in at: http://www.piclist.com/Techref/member/IMB-yahoo-J86/index.htm# Isaac Marino Bavaresco[IMB-yahoo-J86] edited the page. Difference: http://www.piclist.com/techref/diff.asp?url=\Techref\member\IMB-yahoo-J86\index.htm&version=35 ON 20150427@4:35:52 PM at page: On a web page you were interested in at: http://www.piclist.com/Techref/member/IMB-yahoo-J86/index.htm#42121.6915740741 Isaac Marino Bavaresco[IMB-yahoo-J86] Code: /Techref/member/IMB-yahoo-J86/flexiqueue.htm 
    



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ON 20150427@4:49:26 PM at page:
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ON 20150427@5:08:25 PM at page:
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ON 20150427@5:13:22 PM at page:
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ON 20150427@5:18:56 PM at page:
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ON 20150429@12:33:22 PM at page:
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James Newton[JMN-EFP-786] See also:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7I4AeptruZ4
Re-invention (?) of Airdrop Irrigation by USC student Konstantin Avdienko. Air is pumped by a small turbine powered by a solar panel into a copper tube which is buried in the ground and stuffed with copper wool. Air is cooled by the colder temperature of the ground, the water condenses and slides down into the reservoir