From: Martin McCormick <martin.m@suddenlink.net>
To: Microcontroller discussion list - Public. <piclist@mit.edu>
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Date: Wed, 25 Nov 2020 10:13:44 -0800
Subject: Re: [OT] Hyperikon Retrofit LED Tubes Without Ballast
Thread-Topic: [OT] Hyperikon Retrofit LED Tubes Without Ballast
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James Cameron <quozl@laptop.org> writes:
> I can't confirm the data you have on your product, but I've changed two
> fittings over to LED tubes and have another nine not yet changed.  The
> change for my tubes was to wire 240V to each end of the tube,
> isolating the ballast and starter.

Thank you.  That sounds exactly like what I plan to do except
that it will be 120 volts at both ends due to this being North
America and 120 volts is within the voltage range specified on
the tubes, themselves.  First, out of cowardice on my part, I
will connect one LED tube to an isolation transformer and variac
set to around 120 volts to see if the tube both lights properly
and draws the amperage necessary to dissipate 18 watts.  If both
these things happen without anything going poof! or catching
fire, I'll be assured that I can junk the ballast which also contains
the starter circuit.

	All that does is briefly give a shot of a low voltage
of around 1.5 to 3 volts to the cathodes at each end so they
start producing electrons and the gas ionizes.

	I am thinking the LED tubes probably leave 1 of each end
pair of pins unconnected and the other caries 1 side of the
high-voltage pair.
The 120 or 240 volts potential is found at either pin on one end and
either pin on the other.

	If my work bench mockup turns up anything potentially
dangerous to us or things, I will post a message describing what
not to try.

	Martin McCormick   WB5AGZ
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