We use the following flux, https://www.mektronics.com.au/multicore-x33-08i-no-clean-flux-1l.html It works very well on poor solder ability pcb's and/or components etc. Hope this helps Peter ------------------------------------------------------------------------ On 4/03/2019 2:24 am, Manu Abraham wrote: > Hi Peter, > > That's what I did with the solder pot. Would like to know what would > be the ideal flux. > > Thanks, > Manu > > On Sun, Mar 3, 2019 at 7:58 PM Peter wrote: >> Hi Manu, >> >> We do alot of work using a solder pot and the solder will form a >> discolored top layer over time as the solder stays heated, this is >> normal. When you are ready to use the solder pot, the 'dross' as it's >> called is scraped away with a metal scraper. The idea is you dip your >> wire/leg into the flux and then into the hot solder pot. A simple in and >> out action, not leaving it in the pot at all. When removed all wires or >> legs are perfectly tinned and solder easily. >> >> I will have to check which flux we use and report back to you. We buy it >> in large quantities. The flux we use has a water clear appearance but >> you do need fume extraction as you would not breath any of the fumes. >> The flux greatly helps the solder wetting process. We use lead free >> solder in all our solder pots and in the wave soldering machine. >> >> Peter >> >> ------------------------------------------------------------------------ >> >> >> On 3/03/2019 11:53 pm, Manu Abraham wrote: >>> I think, if it works that's a better option, probably. Need to give it >>> a shot and see how it goes. Any particular flux you suggest ? >>> >>> In the solder pot, one of the issues that I came up was that, the lead >>> or maybe tin burns up and forms a kind of crusty film over the molten >>> solder. Appears to me that over time, it needs to skimmed away ? >>> >>> Regarding the flux, is rosin a better alternative ? Have seen some >>> people use an acid based flux (looks slightly yellowish liquid in >>> color, skin except on the palm itches on contact. Smells probably like >>> chlorine gas liberation. When used with normal soldering, there are no >>> residues after soldering, but leaves a very small amount of ash >>> residue, in a ring form). Wonder whether it is a HCl based flux. >>> Wonder whether that can be used in a solder pot. >>> >>> Thanks, >>> >>> Manu >>> >>> On Sun, Mar 3, 2019 at 6:04 PM Peter wrote= : >>>> Slow method but may work, would need to try on actual oxidized crystal >>>> legs. Dip into flux and then re-tin in solder pot? >>>> >>>> I say this because we have some switches and connectors, which get >>>> oxidized and the above works. >>>> >>>> Peter. >>>> >>>> ----------------------------------------------------------------------= -- >>>> >>>> >>>> On 3/03/2019 5:52 pm, Manu Abraham wrote: >>>>> Hi, >>>>> >>>>> I have this large bag of through-hole standard crystals, which have >>>>> their pins oxidized, since the bag was left open for a while and thus >>>>> solderability is a big issue. >>>>> >>>>> The crystals are good, just that time has to be spent scraping the >>>>> oxide of the pins which is a waste of time. >>>>> >>>>> Is there a better way to remove the oxide layer other than scraping, >>>>> probably by a chemical process or so ? >>>>> >>>>> Any thoughts ? >>>>> >>>>> Thanks, >>>>> Manu >>>> -- >>>> http://www.piclist.com/techref/piclist PIC/SX FAQ & list archive >>>> View/change your membership options at >>>> http://mailman.mit.edu/mailman/listinfo/piclist >> -- >> http://www.piclist.com/techref/piclist PIC/SX FAQ & list archive >> View/change your membership options at >> http://mailman.mit.edu/mailman/listinfo/piclist --=20 http://www.piclist.com/techref/piclist PIC/SX FAQ & list archive View/change your membership options at http://mailman.mit.edu/mailman/listinfo/piclist .