Hi Peter, That's what I did with the solder pot. Would like to know what would be the ideal flux. Thanks, Manu On Sun, Mar 3, 2019 at 7:58 PM Peter wrote: > > Hi Manu, > > We do alot of work using a solder pot and the solder will form a > discolored top layer over time as the solder stays heated, this is > normal. When you are ready to use the solder pot, the 'dross' as it's > called is scraped away with a metal scraper. The idea is you dip your > wire/leg into the flux and then into the hot solder pot. A simple in and > out action, not leaving it in the pot at all. When removed all wires or > legs are perfectly tinned and solder easily. > > I will have to check which flux we use and report back to you. We buy it > in large quantities. The flux we use has a water clear appearance but > you do need fume extraction as you would not breath any of the fumes. > The flux greatly helps the solder wetting process. We use lead free > solder in all our solder pots and in the wave soldering machine. > > Peter > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > On 3/03/2019 11:53 pm, Manu Abraham wrote: > > I think, if it works that's a better option, probably. Need to give it > > a shot and see how it goes. Any particular flux you suggest ? > > > > In the solder pot, one of the issues that I came up was that, the lead > > or maybe tin burns up and forms a kind of crusty film over the molten > > solder. Appears to me that over time, it needs to skimmed away ? > > > > Regarding the flux, is rosin a better alternative ? Have seen some > > people use an acid based flux (looks slightly yellowish liquid in > > color, skin except on the palm itches on contact. Smells probably like > > chlorine gas liberation. When used with normal soldering, there are no > > residues after soldering, but leaves a very small amount of ash > > residue, in a ring form). Wonder whether it is a HCl based flux. > > Wonder whether that can be used in a solder pot. > > > > Thanks, > > > > Manu > > > > On Sun, Mar 3, 2019 at 6:04 PM Peter wrote= : > >> Slow method but may work, would need to try on actual oxidized crystal > >> legs. Dip into flux and then re-tin in solder pot? > >> > >> I say this because we have some switches and connectors, which get > >> oxidized and the above works. > >> > >> Peter. > >> > >> ----------------------------------------------------------------------= -- > >> > >> > >> On 3/03/2019 5:52 pm, Manu Abraham wrote: > >>> Hi, > >>> > >>> I have this large bag of through-hole standard crystals, which have > >>> their pins oxidized, since the bag was left open for a while and thus > >>> solderability is a big issue. > >>> > >>> The crystals are good, just that time has to be spent scraping the > >>> oxide of the pins which is a waste of time. > >>> > >>> Is there a better way to remove the oxide layer other than scraping, > >>> probably by a chemical process or so ? > >>> > >>> Any thoughts ? > >>> > >>> Thanks, > >>> Manu > >> -- > >> http://www.piclist.com/techref/piclist PIC/SX FAQ & list archive > >> View/change your membership options at > >> http://mailman.mit.edu/mailman/listinfo/piclist > -- > http://www.piclist.com/techref/piclist PIC/SX FAQ & list archive > View/change your membership options at > http://mailman.mit.edu/mailman/listinfo/piclist --=20 http://www.piclist.com/techref/piclist PIC/SX FAQ & list archive View/change your membership options at http://mailman.mit.edu/mailman/listinfo/piclist .