Hi Manu, We do alot of work using a solder pot and the solder will form a=20 discolored top layer over time as the solder stays heated, this is=20 normal. When you are ready to use the solder pot, the 'dross' as it's=20 called is scraped away with a metal scraper. The idea is you dip your=20 wire/leg into the flux and then into the hot solder pot. A simple in and=20 out action, not leaving it in the pot at all. When removed all wires or=20 legs are perfectly tinned and solder easily. I will have to check which flux we use and report back to you. We buy it=20 in large quantities. The flux we use has a water clear appearance but=20 you do need fume extraction as you would not breath any of the fumes.=20 The flux greatly helps the solder wetting process. We use lead free=20 solder in all our solder pots and in the wave soldering machine. Peter ------------------------------------------------------------------------ On 3/03/2019 11:53 pm, Manu Abraham wrote: > I think, if it works that's a better option, probably. Need to give it > a shot and see how it goes. Any particular flux you suggest ? > > In the solder pot, one of the issues that I came up was that, the lead > or maybe tin burns up and forms a kind of crusty film over the molten > solder. Appears to me that over time, it needs to skimmed away ? > > Regarding the flux, is rosin a better alternative ? Have seen some > people use an acid based flux (looks slightly yellowish liquid in > color, skin except on the palm itches on contact. Smells probably like > chlorine gas liberation. When used with normal soldering, there are no > residues after soldering, but leaves a very small amount of ash > residue, in a ring form). Wonder whether it is a HCl based flux. > Wonder whether that can be used in a solder pot. > > Thanks, > > Manu > > On Sun, Mar 3, 2019 at 6:04 PM Peter wrote: >> Slow method but may work, would need to try on actual oxidized crystal >> legs. Dip into flux and then re-tin in solder pot? >> >> I say this because we have some switches and connectors, which get >> oxidized and the above works. >> >> Peter. >> >> ------------------------------------------------------------------------ >> >> >> On 3/03/2019 5:52 pm, Manu Abraham wrote: >>> Hi, >>> >>> I have this large bag of through-hole standard crystals, which have >>> their pins oxidized, since the bag was left open for a while and thus >>> solderability is a big issue. >>> >>> The crystals are good, just that time has to be spent scraping the >>> oxide of the pins which is a waste of time. >>> >>> Is there a better way to remove the oxide layer other than scraping, >>> probably by a chemical process or so ? >>> >>> Any thoughts ? >>> >>> Thanks, >>> Manu >> -- >> http://www.piclist.com/techref/piclist PIC/SX FAQ & list archive >> View/change your membership options at >> http://mailman.mit.edu/mailman/listinfo/piclist --=20 http://www.piclist.com/techref/piclist PIC/SX FAQ & list archive View/change your membership options at http://mailman.mit.edu/mailman/listinfo/piclist .