I think, if it works that's a better option, probably. Need to give it a shot and see how it goes. Any particular flux you suggest ? In the solder pot, one of the issues that I came up was that, the lead or maybe tin burns up and forms a kind of crusty film over the molten solder. Appears to me that over time, it needs to skimmed away ? Regarding the flux, is rosin a better alternative ? Have seen some people use an acid based flux (looks slightly yellowish liquid in color, skin except on the palm itches on contact. Smells probably like chlorine gas liberation. When used with normal soldering, there are no residues after soldering, but leaves a very small amount of ash residue, in a ring form). Wonder whether it is a HCl based flux. Wonder whether that can be used in a solder pot. Thanks, Manu On Sun, Mar 3, 2019 at 6:04 PM Peter wrote: > > Slow method but may work, would need to try on actual oxidized crystal > legs. Dip into flux and then re-tin in solder pot? > > I say this because we have some switches and connectors, which get > oxidized and the above works. > > Peter. > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > On 3/03/2019 5:52 pm, Manu Abraham wrote: > > Hi, > > > > I have this large bag of through-hole standard crystals, which have > > their pins oxidized, since the bag was left open for a while and thus > > solderability is a big issue. > > > > The crystals are good, just that time has to be spent scraping the > > oxide of the pins which is a waste of time. > > > > Is there a better way to remove the oxide layer other than scraping, > > probably by a chemical process or so ? > > > > Any thoughts ? > > > > Thanks, > > Manu > -- > http://www.piclist.com/techref/piclist PIC/SX FAQ & list archive > View/change your membership options at > http://mailman.mit.edu/mailman/listinfo/piclist --=20 http://www.piclist.com/techref/piclist PIC/SX FAQ & list archive View/change your membership options at http://mailman.mit.edu/mailman/listinfo/piclist .