Dwayne Reid <dwayner <at> planet.eon.net> writes:
> I greatly appreciate your information.  I am not yet competent with=20
> this technology and had assumed that most (all?) prismatic-shaped Li=20
> cells are in fact LiPo.  From what you are saying, that is a=20
> completely wrong assumption.

Search for 'rc lipo battery discharge rate' or such and you shall find.
LiPo, LiIon and LiPohybrid are not at all the same thing, although the
latter two look the same physically, the familiar plastic pouch shape. The
metal can ones are LiIon and usually not a good idea to get and use.

You might want to read this:

http://www.rchelicopterfun.com/rc-lipo-batteries.html

So, conclusions:
- You want LiPohybrid, probably sold as 'RC heli/drone flight batteries'
- You can get 300 cycles out of them, or more
- Pay attention to running temperature (keep low) and charging (NO=20
  overcharging/underdischarging)
- Spec the battery starting with your peak current, then figure out the siz=
e=20
  from that.
- If you can limit inrush and peak current etc in your circuit then
  the reward will be a smaller battery. The inrush/peak current also causes=
=20
  voltage drop which gets a lot larger the more discharged the battery is  =
=20
  and may unnecessarily trip the IMPORTANT battery discharge end / loads=20
  shutdown sense circuit if not accounted for.=20
  Lixx internal resistance increases a lot more with discharge than for
  other chemistries and you have to account for this (see above).
- RC LiPohybrid batteries are typically specified for discharge current for=
 a
  normal 10-20 minute flight, well cooled by relative wind. Used inside a c=
ase
  things will be VERY different, i.e. derate and maybe add a thermal fuse o=
f
  your own.

--=20
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