I prefer to use barrel crimp connections. These are a short (1/4"=20 long) tinned-copper sleeve large enough for both conductors to fit=20 inside. You can use them either in-line or as a pigtail splice. The crimp style I use is often called a "W" crimp because of the=20 shape of the finished crimp. I have several tools that provide that=20 crimp style - mostly from Amp. But a T&B Stakon crimp tool will work=20 just about as well - this is the crimp tool that most electricians=20 carry on their belt. Easily recognizable by the orange and black=20 handles (one handle each color). I also prefer to use in-line splices when repairing a wiring=20 harness. There are a couple of reasons but the main reason is that=20 adhesive-lined heat shrink tubing makes a perfect seal when it goes=20 around only one conductor. That doesn't happen as easily if it's a=20 pigtail splice. Splices like this should last for decades. FWIW - I sometimes have trouble sourcing these barrel crimp=20 splices. I then simply cut them off of a standard terminal crimp=20 such as ring-tongue or spade. I keep handy several bags of Amp #10=20 ring-tongue terminals for #10 wire - these get use both as intended=20 as well as a source of these crimp barrels. Finally, I saw someone mention soldering the wires. This *can* be=20 reliable but you have to watch out for solder-wicking and=20 flexing. Solder that wicks up under the insulation on a conductor=20 that then flexes will fail. It can be done but it takes much=20 practice to get it right. If I do have to solder a splice, I generally will do a "Western=20 Union" splice, then solder only the middle part of the splice. Doing=20 the splice this way virtually guarantees that you don't get solder=20 wicking and the over-wrapped tail provides flex strain relief. A "Western Union" splice is where the wires are stripped somewhere=20 between 1.5" - 2.5" (depending upon conductor diameter), overlapped=20 about 75%, twisted tightly for 2 or 3 wraps, then the remaining tail=20 from each conductor is tight-wrapped around the adjacent=20 conductor. Very, very strong and Very, Very reliable. This was the very first splice that I learned to make when I was=20 perhaps 6 years old and it has served me well over the intervening=20 decades. Some kind soul had brought me a book from the local high=20 school called "The Boy Electrician" - I have forgotten who brought me=20 the book but I'll probably never forget the book! dwayne At 06:45 PM 4/27/2015, Charles Craft wrote: >I think I asked this a couple years ago. >Just getting around to the project now. :-) >I'm the not so proud owner of a Polaris ATV with a bad wiring harness. > >Butt splice or solder to repair broken wires? >If butt splice, tin wires first? >If butt splice, treat wires with "conductive paste to reduce/prevent=20 >oxidation"? > >I think last time around someone mentioned there was a mil-spec or=20 >aircraft spec that said to use mechanical splices. --=20 Dwayne Reid Trinity Electronics Systems Ltd Edmonton, AB, CANADA (780) 489-3199 voice (780) 487-6397 fax www.trinity-electronics.com Custom Electronics Design and Manufacturing --=20 http://www.piclist.com/techref/piclist PIC/SX FAQ & list archive View/change your membership options at http://mailman.mit.edu/mailman/listinfo/piclist .