According to the manual this machine may draw 22 amps at 110 vac. The=20
only field test at that power level is substitution.
I digging into the motor itself seems threatening then look for a local=20
motor repair shop. It won't be cheap to ship it anywhere.
Be certain that the power source can maintain the a 20 amp load!
Do not work on this motor with the belts on it!

On 3/24/2015 12:27 AM, Neil wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> My high-school robotics team has this mill (
> http://www.amazon.com/Grizzly-G1006-Mill-Drill/dp/B0000DD0AF ) and the
> motor recently stopped.  If I switch it on repeatedly, every few times
> it will "kick" is smidge as if it wants to come on, but does not.
>
> It has 2 capacitors (run and start) and a centrifugal switch on the
> motor shaft with a switch.  And it runs on 110VAC.  I'm not sure what
> type of motor it is.
>
> So far, I've checked both capacitors (had them tested and they're fine),
> plus I've checked the centrifugal switch, cleaned the switch contacts
> and verified that the switch makes contact when the centrifugal switch
> is manually flipped outwards.  I've also gone through the junction box
> on the side of the motor, verified and tightened up all connections and
> tested the power switch to ensure that works fine.
>
> I was thinking that if I can get another motor from elsewhere I could
> swap that in to verify that everything I've tested so far does indeed
> work properly, but so far I can't get a hold of another. According to
> the manufacturer, since all else checks out, it must be the motor, but
> before I have that shipped off, what else can I check or how can I test
> the motor directly?
>
> Thanks,
> -Neil.
>
>
>

--=20
John Ferrell W8CCW
    Julian NC 27283
  It is better to walk alone,
than with a crowd going the wrong direction.
                   --Diane Grant


--=20
http://www.piclist.com/techref/piclist PIC/SX FAQ & list archive
View/change your membership options at
http://mailman.mit.edu/mailman/listinfo/piclist
.