There are two motor windings start and run.
It sounds like the start cap does not check out as you say it does, ohming =
it out shows that its a cap, but the value is low.  Hard wire your start ca=
p to that winding, and apply power (thu the cap) it should turn...
Once that start cap charges up, its almost an open circuit. If the start ca=
p is actually low in capacitance, its not conducting long enough for the ce=
ntrifugal switch to kick in. Swap the start cap, the value is not critical,=
 40 uF or so, (the voltage rating is).

> Date: Tue, 24 Mar 2015 00:27:53 -0400
> From: picdude3@narwani.org
> To: piclist@mit.edu
> Subject: [EE] Testing an AC motor
>=20
> Hi all,
>=20
> My high-school robotics team has this mill (=20
> http://www.amazon.com/Grizzly-G1006-Mill-Drill/dp/B0000DD0AF ) and the=20
> motor recently stopped.  If I switch it on repeatedly, every few times=20
> it will "kick" is smidge as if it wants to come on, but does not.
>=20
> It has 2 capacitors (run and start) and a centrifugal switch on the=20
> motor shaft with a switch.  And it runs on 110VAC.  I'm not sure what=20
> type of motor it is.
>=20
> So far, I've checked both capacitors (had them tested and they're fine),=
=20
> plus I've checked the centrifugal switch, cleaned the switch contacts=20
> and verified that the switch makes contact when the centrifugal switch=20
> is manually flipped outwards.  I've also gone through the junction box=20
> on the side of the motor, verified and tightened up all connections and=20
> tested the power switch to ensure that works fine.
>=20
> I was thinking that if I can get another motor from elsewhere I could=20
> swap that in to verify that everything I've tested so far does indeed=20
> work properly, but so far I can't get a hold of another. According to=20
> the manufacturer, since all else checks out, it must be the motor, but=20
> before I have that shipped off, what else can I check or how can I test=20
> the motor directly?
>=20
> Thanks,
> -Neil.
>=20
>=20
>=20
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