Whereas I do like the light output and color (clean white) from these,=20 I'm thinking that if I do that, I'm putting in stock bulbs. Car is not=20 really going to be a daily driver, so it's not critical to have the HIDs. Cheers, -Neil. On 2/17/2015 10:06 AM, Dave Lagzdin wrote: > Neil, I would try change the ballasts, newer ones could be better behaved= .. > lots of discussion on analog vs digital- eg: > > https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3DI_vlOF_b9rw > > On 17 February 2015 at 08:13, Mike wrote: > >> Randy Dawson hotmail.com> writes: >> >>> Here's the low-tech, non-electronic fix. The part you want is a >> "Negative >> Temperature Coefficient >>> Resistor" a NTC. Put these in series with your lamps, they are >> available >> with a starting resistance of a few >>> ohms to hundreds of ohms - for a 12V system pick a range of 20 ohms or >> less (or they will never heat up) >>> When they do heat up, they go to almost zero. An added benefit, it wil= l >> add life to your lamps. >>> Randy >> This may work for conventional filament lamps, but HID lamps use a high >> power inverter (a.k.a 'Ballast') to get sufficient voltage to both strik= e >> the lamp (~15000v) and keep it running after (80v at 1/2 amp or so). >> >> Any significant resistance in the supply path will prevent the lamps fro= m >> starting, in fact the OP's symptoms (initial flash then a re-start) sugg= est >> a poor supply or ground, and if this is shared with the ECU then it's no= t >> surprising things are going pear shaped. >> >> Mike >> >> -- >> http://www.piclist.com/techref/piclist PIC/SX FAQ & list archive >> View/change your membership options at >> http://mailman.mit.edu/mailman/listinfo/piclist >> --=20 http://www.piclist.com/techref/piclist PIC/SX FAQ & list archive View/change your membership options at http://mailman.mit.edu/mailman/listinfo/piclist .