Neil, I would try change the ballasts, newer ones could be better behaved. lots of discussion on analog vs digital- eg: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3DI_vlOF_b9rw On 17 February 2015 at 08:13, Mike wrote: > Randy Dawson hotmail.com> writes: > > > > > Here's the low-tech, non-electronic fix. The part you want is a > "Negative > Temperature Coefficient > > Resistor" a NTC. Put these in series with your lamps, they are > available > with a starting resistance of a few > > ohms to hundreds of ohms - for a 12V system pick a range of 20 ohms or > less (or they will never heat up) > > > > When they do heat up, they go to almost zero. An added benefit, it wil= l > add life to your lamps. > > > > Randy > > This may work for conventional filament lamps, but HID lamps use a high > power inverter (a.k.a 'Ballast') to get sufficient voltage to both strike > the lamp (~15000v) and keep it running after (80v at 1/2 amp or so). > > Any significant resistance in the supply path will prevent the lamps from > starting, in fact the OP's symptoms (initial flash then a re-start) sugge= st > a poor supply or ground, and if this is shared with the ECU then it's not > surprising things are going pear shaped. > > Mike > > -- > http://www.piclist.com/techref/piclist PIC/SX FAQ & list archive > View/change your membership options at > http://mailman.mit.edu/mailman/listinfo/piclist > --=20 http://www.piclist.com/techref/piclist PIC/SX FAQ & list archive View/change your membership options at http://mailman.mit.edu/mailman/listinfo/piclist .