It can be removed by scraping with a very hot soldering iron and a junk tip=
..
It smells really bad, but it can be done.

http://youtu.be/vpgMn88Qfjs

Cheers,
Robert

----------------------------------------
> Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2015 09:04:51 -0600
> From: darron@griffin.net
> To: piclist@mit.edu
> Subject: Re: [EE] PCB glue
>
>> Neutral cure silicone rubber sounds like a reasonable match.
>> It's not instant cure - for that use hot-melt to locate short term and
>> silicon rubber for the long term bond.
>>
>> It is removable, depending on what area you choose to use.
>> Can be 'thinnish'.
>> Will ooze out under pressure unless suitably designed.
>>
>> I recently tried to remove some aluminum L brackets from PCBs. Just what=
 I
>> needed for a prototype. These were assembled and bonded 10+ years ago an=
d
>> had been used as mechanical attachment plus heatsink to fram (exercise
>> bike).
>> They were fixed with 2 small screws (3mm, threaded hex but) PLUS silicon=
e
>> rubber under the contact face.
>> After a small while I gave up an went and found some other Al material. =
I
>> could have removed this with enough effort but the bond was superb. This
>> was Al onto soldermask.
>>
>>
> I recently tried to remove a dead point-of-load switching regulator
> (V7805-1000R) that was glued down with neutral cure silicone and nothing
> else (besides the 3 pins). I completely destroyed the regulator
> eventually leaving only the bottom plastic casing wall still adhering to
> the PCB.
>
> It was 17.5 x 11.5mm. The assembly process was to put a dab of silicone
> under the part and clamp it down for at least 30 minutes... the clamp
> pretty much spread the silicone into an extremely thin layer under the
> entire bottom face of the part.
>
> I think I'll need to use a dremel or throw it on the mill to get it off.
> It's on the "TODO: repair" parts pile.
>
>
> Darron
>
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