On 3/4/14 12:20 PM, Matt Bennett wrote:
> I've used JB Weld to affix some ceramic substrate high power LEDs to=20
> aluminum (10W strips) (the strips only had holes for screws on the=20
> ends), and they have held up well. The thermal qualities of JB weld=20
> aren't particularly great- a good mechanical bond is also necessary,=20
> and the heart of any heat sink connection. The regulator you point to=20
> doesn't look to have need for a heatsink? It looks like it is covered=20
> with plastic-
Yes, it's covered in plastic, and I was thinking of removing that, to=20
minimize the insulation. That might be even enough change to make it=20
work, but I would think marginal, an likely would quit while really=20
needing it driving. Since it worked OK for a couple of hours on the=20
bench 12 VDC, I'm thinking it's marginal, and just need some smaller=20
changes. Was thinking also of gluing some little fins to the device's=20
aluminum.
> if that is there, any sort of heatsink you use won't really do much.=20
> But, with this setup (the switcher), is a heatsink really necessary?=20
> How much power are you actually dissipating?
Don't know the actual numbers but 2 AA alkaline batteries are good for=20
maybe 6 hours. will have to find a way. Think I can get the input amps=20
and volts fairly easily, but the device connector is going to be a pain. :(
--=20
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