> Joe - I have some hot-foil printing process rolls - metal film on
> plastic backing made to produce metallic writing in cards by
> stamping with a hot stamp with raised area to transfer metal to
> card etc. That MAY be able to be used in some way.

Hmmm, possibly, thanks. I'll tuck that idea away

I was also thinking of using the toner transfer PCB method but I
don't think wood is smooth enough for good line integrity and it
would probably require getting it wet to remove the paper. And
that will likely raise fibres which could disrupt whatever pattern
did stick. Maybe not too much though, I really should just give it
a try. Warping or cracking of thin stock from the heat of an iron
might be a problem

Another option, which I daydream about occassionally, is hacking
an inkjet printer. Ideally I want white ink to print on dark wood,
although yellow would probably do. The roughness and thickness
of wood means a new feed system, and most likely some method
to raise and lower either the head or the wood to follow contours,
as the stock is not always flat, intentionally or otherwise. I have an
X-Y plotter assembly built, ready to go when I figure it all out,
whether that be laser or printer

> Do you wear eye protection?

Yes, I got a couple of pairs of goggles from Wicked Lasers. After
finding that no one, AFAICT, in NZ stocks them. !!!!

> Might increased dwell time and some means of improving insulation
> improve the result.

No, not really. I tried quite a long exposure, a couple of minutes, and
couldn't see any noticeable mark on either pine or mdf, nor feel any
heating. A red laser in this power range (< 1W) selectively burns the
red colourants (including components of lignin and tannin) and white
woods generally have much less of them. A laser that targeted cellulose
would be ideal, as might a colourless reactive solution that could be
painted on, although that could pose finishing and presentation issues

Joe
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