A possible way of "improving " a home cast gear is to:
Will it work? Don't know.
Might it work? Yes!!!


- Find a steel gear wheel of any tooth count that meshes properly with
your target gear that is going to work with your cast gear.

- Make up a system where your cast gear drives or is driben by you
steel gear under load.

- Operate the system and over time the cast gear will start to assume
the correct (probably trochoid) tooth shape.

When gears with simple wooden pegs as teeth are operated together the
pags assume a trochoidal shape over time as the increased pressures at
the "incorrect" locations cause more wear.
In your "training " system use of mild grinding compound on the gears may h=
elp.

Not the same, but:

Long long long ago [tm] I ground a valve in a side valve engine
against a valve seat that was very badly damaged with a deep V in it.
I used a motor drive, suction cup, grinding powder and about a week of
slow grinding in (at about 60 RPM AFAIR (about 35+ years ago)) mainly
while I was not present. The resultant valve seat was rather wider
than it should have been (which is bad) but the car gave much more
good service after that. (Side Valve Hillman Minx. 1958>)

Trochoids:

https://www.google.co.nz/search?q=3Dtrochoid&hl=3Den&tbm=3Disch&tbo=3Du&sou=
rce=3Duniv&sa=3DX&ei=3DUJSSUeHrDIe4iQeelID4Dw&ved=3D0CEwQsAQ&biw=3D2133&bih=
=3D1153

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trochoid

http://mathworld.wolfram.com/Trochoid.html

_________________

Nylon 66 with embedded metal powder may be of use.

Teflon / PTFE has about as good a temperature performance as you'll
get in plastics and is commonly used filled but may be too weak/soft.

Sintering metal powders may work.

Print one with newish metal sintering systems.


      Russell
--=20
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