Put a capacitor across the lamp. You can put it in the wall box if you
have all the conductors there. Make sure you use one that is designed
for AC. Grab a blue one out of an old compact fluorescent bulb.

If it doesn't fully extinguish the glow, use two capacitors in parallel.
You'll probably need at least .047uF depending on the LED. This trick
won't work with all types of LED bulbs.

Best regards,

Bob

On Thu, Jan 10, 2013, at 08:23 AM, Carl Denk wrote:
> I am doing and energy efficient upgrade by changing a few BR30 (75w??)=20
> incadecent with 15 watt dimmable LED lamps. One has a regular dimmer=20
> switch that works fine, but the one on an X-10 dimmer switch is dim when=
=20
> "OFF". I understand the Triac (or whatever transistorized switch) has=20
> leakage current that is suffient to cause the LED's to glow. I would not=
=20
> think this to be an issue with the X-10 oulet we have that sounds like=20
> there is a latching relay inside.
>=20
> One of the fixes I have seen is to parallel a small incadecent lamp with=
=20
> the LED, but that's not very efficent energy wise.
>=20
> A call to Leviton, one of the major manufacturers of X-10 resulted in=20
> the following comments:
> 1: X-10 is old technology, and recommended a wireless solution. There is=
=20
> enough wireless polution, and don't want to contribute to that, plus the=
=20
> expense and labor, and that's not part of this discussion.
> 2: They do not recommend ANY LED's on X-10 systems due to noise. I=20
> understand what was said, but my power company reliably reads my=20
> electric meter and retrieves the data via power line data transfer.
>=20
> The real question is: Has anyone used X-10 to control dimmable LED's ,=20
> if so, how? Via the Z-10, I only need on/off. Dim is only manually=20
> locally. We use the X-10 to turn on/off lights around the house for=20
> security purposes.

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