Dwayne Reid wrote:

> At 04:13 PM 10/29/2012, PICdude wrote:
> >Whereas I don't want to do the cutting, I'm curious what these blades
> >are called, as it may be nice to have one around the shop for other
> >things.  Right now, I've got to cut aluminum framing (patio-screen
> >framing) for a trade-show display and about to research which blade
> >(same I bet) to use for that.
>
> You *can* use a standard carbide-tipped wood-cutting blade if you are
> extremely careful.  The more teeth, the better and the blade has to be SH=
ARP.
>
> Clamp the material as best as you can and feed the saw blade slowly
> into the cut.
>
> This works very well on a radial-arm saw and will work just fine on a
> standard miter-saw.  You can also use a hand-held circular saw but
> its hard to stop the blade from grabbing.  Its not particularly
> dangerous so long as you don't let the saw get out of control.
>
> I don't think that I would try this on a table saw, though, without
> using the proper blade.
>
> All that said: a carbide-tipped blade designed for cutting
> non-ferrous metal just works "Better".
>
> Our local Princess Auto store recently had a sale on 7 1/4"
> ferrous-cutting blades which I used to cut up a bunch of
> steel-skinned Structural Insulated Panels with.  The blade looks
> almost identical with the similar non-ferrous cutting blades that I
> have but the carbide teeth look to be much sturdier.  The rake angle
> is very similar, though.
>

One thing to never do is use a chop saw fiber blade to cut non
ferrious metals. or non ferrous metals on a grind stone. Essentially
what happens a chip is forced into as crack and rapidly cools
at the same time because of the mass difference between the chip
and the stone or chop saw blade.

The chip heats up from friction and expands. Grinding stones
and some blades are brittle and they shatter.. I have seen a stone
break that way in a shop, no one was hurt but lots of excitement
for a few minutes. (Resulting in out of balance grinders very scary)

w..




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