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We've done similar things with 20W and 100W resistors.

The most consistent failure was the soldered joint from resistor tabs to wi=
res.=20
At any elevated temperature above 80degC we noticed that the joints, over t=
ime,=20
would fail and become open cct. This was cured by either bolting or crimpin=
g=20
wires to the resistor tabs.

We've run 20W resistors (ceramic casing) up to 100degC for up to 10+ hrs be=
fore=20
element failure. 100W up to 160degC for close to 40+ hrs before element fai=
lure=20
(ceramic/aluminium casing).

Nino.

On 3/10/2011 2:14 PM, RussellMc wrote:
> On 3 October 2011 02:30, PICdude<picdude3@narwani.org>  wrote:
>> How do these things fail?  This is not a volume or commercial product,
> I used commercial white ceramic 5W and 10W resistors to "power" a
> Fluidyne Stirling Engine (small and for fun). These were run at about
> rate wattage with the aim of being "as hot as possible". From memory
> these were placed in contact with a metal tube, possibly layered over
> with high temperature silicone rubber and wrapped in fibreglass
> insulation (intended for in-wall insulation). These lasted "for a
> while". Given that the engine only got occasional use I'd suspect they
> lasted 10's of hours of run time. This was OK for the application.
> Temperature unknown. Failure O/C.
>
> If you used Nichrome and brought the ends out to a cooler location
> you'd not have the problems that Bob mentions.
>
>
>     Russell
>

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