Bob Blick wrote:
> On Tuesday, September 06, 2011 8:46 PM, "Carl Denk"  wrote:
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>>Were the lug bolts furnished with the wheels? If not the lugs and=20
>>wheel's mating surfaces may not have the same contour? i.e. conical=20
>>angle, spherical radius, etc.
>>
>>>I swap tires around on my Miata a couple of times a month, so I don't
>>>have any problems with corrosion. But the studs and nuts would wear out
>>>from all that action if they were dry. I put a little antiseize on maybe
>>>once a year. At recommended torque I find that a lug here or there will
>>>loosen up sometimes, but they are not the factory wheels or lugs, so the
>>>recommended torque is just a number. I find I must go five pounds over
>>>for them to stay tight.
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> They are both conical, and when I bought the wheels I asked for matching
> nuts, and they do.
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> Chances are it's just that you really should re-torque after a few hours
> of driving. But when I put on my sticky tires I want the wheels to stay
> on all day, so I go five pounds over. Since I've been doing that I have
> never had any motion when I re-torque.
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> And that may explain why tire shops regularly overtighten - they don't
> want a nut to come loose and they don't care if they warp a rotor/drum.

Sounds like you need to go to a better tire store.

At Costco South Edmonton, they used to have TWO people do the final=20
tightening. One checked the torque wrench setting, then the other guy=20
tightened. Then the 2nd guy verified the setting and the first guy went=20
around and checked that that torques were correct. I was rather=20
surprised that they took the extra time, but I guess their lawyers went=20
anal on them (or the 2nd guy was in training??).

At least Costco uses a proper torque wrench for final tightening.
I'd never take my business to a shop that relied on the air wrench=20
settings. So take a few minutes to watch how they work in the shop so=20
you'll know what method to expect.

Robert



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