The 7.4 volt actual 9 volt NI-MH battery was the original battery in the=20
meter. I replaced it with a fresh alkaline that is still in the meter. I=20
connected the 7.4 volt NI-MH battery to the meter test leads for testing=20
purposes. Sorry about the misunderstanding.

Update: After overnight, and then 2 hours later of being off both times,=20
the meter still reads 7.4 volts. -  STABLE. Been here before, but=20
fingers crossed problem solved. :) 2 items that I did that might have=20
helped: 1 The fuse clips (10 amp and 0.5 amp) appears they have been=20
wave soldered from the non-component side. The clips have the usual 2=20
ears that go through the holes and solder looked good there, but there=20
are also flats on the component side and matching large copper areas.=20
There was almost no solder flowed into those areas, which I repaired by=20
adding solder and heating for good flow into the mating surfaces. Also=20
replaced the fuses since they were out and had new stock. Also reflowed=20
the lead terminals to that PCB.

If the problem surfaces again, I will try the heat and component cooler=20
(I'll have to order).

Thanks again for all the  help. :) :)

On 7/21/2011 4:43 AM, alan.b.pearce@stfc.ac.uk wrote:
>> Replaced battery with fresh 9 volt alkaline (voltage slightly above 9
>> volts with good meter), no change. The removed battery was 7.4 volts.
>>     =20
> Sounds like the meter is not turning off - didn't you put a (quote) 'fres=
hly charged Ni-MH' into it? Sounds like it has discharged in a real short t=
ime, or the Ni-MH is on its last legs for holding a charge.
>
>
>   =20
--=20
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