On Mar 22, 2011, at 3:20 PM, Ing. Marcelo Fornaso wrote:

> I'm a little afraid of using this sheets on my laser printer because =20
> their
> surface looks like plastic...

Sheesh.  Find someplace that uses laser-printable label sheets.  Or =20
even buy some.  Use any remaining labels as ... labels or something, =20
leaving you with a backing  sheet suitable for this sort of toner-=20
transfer.  Any laser-printable labels will have a non-melting backing =20
sheet; probably silicone based.

Try the library.  Our middle school library prints bar codes on sheets =20
of labels for their new books.  This usually doesn't fill up a sheet, =20
and the software doesn't support exact placement of the barcodes on =20
partially filled sheets, so the remaining labels get stamped with the =20
school name/etc for tagging magazines and such.  Eventually they're =20
all used up and the backing sheet is thrown away.

Some backing sheets are nicer than others.

I prefer the destructively processed glossy magazine paper route.   =20
The reason that the label backing sheet works so well is that toner =20
doesn't stick to it.  Which also can mean that it's subject to flaking =20
off somewhere in the process before it gets to your board...

=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D

Professional PCB fabrication services get cheaper and cheaper, and =20
more and more convenient to amateurs.  Batched hobbyist services =20
(batchPCB, dorkbot) have "solved" the minimum board size problem, so =20
that you're no longer penalized for wanting a very small board.  =20
Direct-from-china suppliers (Itead, Seeed) are doing the cheap-=20
prototypes (~$20) with long lead time thing so that you're no longer =20
forced to use a high-priced quick-turn supplier for "prototypes."  The =20
only remaining advantage of home fabrication is that simplicity =20
(single sided, 16mil design rules) will get you faster and cheaper.  =20
But it's getting harder and hard to justify.

BillW

--=20
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