John Ferrell wrote: > On 3/18/2011 1:03 PM, Michael Watterson wrote: >> On 18/03/2011 16:47, John Ferrell wrote: >>> This is a >>> "Google has not been my friend on this, either because it doesn't >>> exist, or I >>> just don't know the right incantation to find it." >>> >>> I would like to re-visit an attempt to use a plotter (actually a vinyl >>> sign cutter) to apply resist to home brew PC Boards. >>> It would be helpful to be able to convert Gerbers to HPGL or find a >>> layout program that provides a HPGL output file. >>> >>> Of course, the solution needs to be free or cheap. >>> >>> I wish I could find a way to get Google to quit offering a thousand bad >>> answers when it cannot produce an answer that fits the requested search >>> parameters. >>> >>> >> see plug ins for Eagle. On Cadsoft site >> >> I used a PCB mill plug in. Similarish but not the same. >> The kit "pcb mill" that Elektor featured long ago. The results for >> double sided 0.8mm RF PCB not bad once we milled the bed to make it flat= .. >> >> I forget the brand. >> >> You could use UV LED on the plotter and photo resist on the PCB? >> Dunno. >> >> Also if you install the Plotter on Windows can Eagle "print" to it >> directly? (CD marker as pen for resist?) >> >> A million years ago we used HP plotter to plot layouts on paper and >> mylar from something, with Schematics done in Futurenet in DOS, Circa >> 1986 This is a recurring theme. I've done PCBs using a plotter, laser toner transfer, and using the photochemical method. The photo method produces superior results, is relatively inexpensive, and is the most repeatable. So my question is: what problem are you trying to solve? Is the photo method too expensive, too long, whatever? A few comments on the "plotter" method: - You can't use just any CD marker or a Sharpie. There is a very specific kind that you must use (I forget the exact brand, but can see if I can dig them up if there is interest). Most people ignore this point, and the results are awful. - You can't have very fine traces. The thinnest trace you can get is about 15 mils. - The layer of ink varies in thickness, and it's fragile, which means you have a very thin margin of error when it comes to etching. A few seconds to= o long, and you get holes in your traces. - You can't print from EAGLE. Back in the day, we used EASYTRAX (if I remember the spelling correctly) with an HP plotter. At work, we use the photo method exclusively, whenever we need the boards quickly. The blank boards are $6-10 depending on the size, and the resolution rivals professional board shops (we routinely use TSSOPs w/ our "homemade" boards). Vitaliy --=20 http://www.piclist.com PIC/SX FAQ & list archive View/change your membership options at http://mailman.mit.edu/mailman/listinfo/piclist .