Geo wrote:
> Yes - if you can use right angle connectors it is often possible to 
> solder the pins top and bottom

Problem is, all I've got in the way of connectors is:
   - a box full of 0.1in Molex KK connectors (the real ones, sourced 
from Digikey -- good to 2A, 250V if memory serves). No R/A connectors, 
all straight PCB and crimp-to-wire.
   - A couple of different sizes of PCB-mount terminal block. Again, not 
R/A.
   - Some really weird FPC/FFC connectors for an LCD display.
   - Some even weirder FPC/FFC connectors. SMD, with a really nutty 
voltage rating (15.3V or something like that -- yes the D/S lists the 
point-three)
   - Maybe a couple of 8-way FCi Clincher connectors (which work 
*really* nicely for the 0.1in-pitch print-head connectors on the Seiko 
MTP printer modules)
   - A valve base. B12A or something like that, to fit a DG7/32 CRT. 
I've got the CRT as well :)

 > otherwise just drill a hole and solder
> a wire then trim it off to join the upper and lower layers.

A standard DIY wire-via then. Basically what the track pins are, but 
somewhat less convenient.

 > It may be
> necessary to widen the track slightly from that "via" to the connector 
> or device pin (or bend the "via" wire over and solder it along the last 
> couple of mm.)

Indeed.

Getting some 2oz board, or simply using more connectors may be an easier 
solution (except if I want 2oz FR4 blanks, I have to special-order them).

Although a 10C temperature rise is pretty conservative -- I suspect the 
board could survive a 20C rise at ~60C ambient (which is probably 
roughly in line with the temperature in the box where the timer and 
switches are mounted, while the oven is operating).

Hmm.

-- 
Phil.
piclist@philpem.me.uk
http://www.philpem.me.uk/
-- 
http://www.piclist.com PIC/SX FAQ & list archive
View/change your membership options at
http://mailman.mit.edu/mailman/listinfo/piclist