This is the one I was thinking about. Just would add something in 
tension between the 2 arms close to the Dremel to wedge it in. Doesn't 
have to be anything heavy, 3/16" rod (#10 screw size) would be more than 
enough. The plywood thickness should be fairly thin, so light finger 
pressure will cause 1/2" vertical movement maximum. Literally want to 
tap your finger to drill a hole. There are very many holes to drill, 
don't want to wear out the fingers on drilling holes. :)

Dwayne Reid wrote:
> At 07:04 AM 7/28/2009, Carl Denk wrote:
>   
>> I wouldn't use hinges, but the horizontal from the back to the front, a
>> pair of 2" to 3" wide x 1/4" or 3/8" wide plywood strips.
>>     
>
> I posted a text description a couple weeks ago of a very simple 
> parallelogram-style drill press much like the one that Solarwind 
> linked to (Instructables web-site).
>
> I was going through some old notes and see another, even simpler 
> drill-press suitable for a Dremel tool that I had played with many years ago.
>
> Measure the distance from the front of your workbench to the 
> back.  Cut a piece of 1 X 4 wood to about 2" less than that 
> length.  You can use a strip of 1/2" plywood 2" to 3" wide instead of 
> real wood if that's what you have handy.
>
> Near one end (1" - 1.25" away), drill a hole very slightly smaller 
> than the diameter of the Dremel tool's nose-piece.  That's the 
> plastic nut that you would unscrew and remove if you were to add a 
> flex-shaft to the Dremel tool.  Cut a slot from the end of the wood 
> through to the hole you just drilled, then drill a small hole 
> suitable for a screw to clamp the slot shut.  The idea is to stick 
> the Dremel tool through the hole in the piece of wood and clamp it tight.
>
> Now grab a short piece of 2 X 4 perhaps 4" long.  Screw it cross-wise 
> to the end of the wood strip opposite the Dremel tool.  Now just 
> screw or clamp that whole assembly to the back of the workbench such 
> that the Dremel tool is sitting near the front of the bench.  The 
> collet should be perhaps an inch and a half above the surface of the 
> bench.  Cut down the height of the 2 X 4 if you have to.
>
> You want to adjust the height of the 2 X 4 such that the tip of the 
> drill bit is sitting 1/4" or so above the sacrificial surface that 
> the PCB will be sitting on (on top of the workbench surface).  You 
> *do* want a sacrificial surface to drill into so as to not wreck the 
> bench-top.  Just set the PCB on top of that material - tape it down 
> if you want.  It should slide around easily.
>
> Using it is simplicity itself: just push down on the wood strip and 
> the drill bit goes through the PCB material.  Let go, and the natural 
> springiness of the board lifts the Dremel tool back out of the PCB.
>
> You will note that the travel of the drill bit describes a very 
> shallow arc as it moves.  That is simply not a problem, assuming that 
> the wood strip is somewhere near 34" or so long.
>
> Assuming that you have suitable wood scraps handy, this shouldn't 
> take more than a few minutes to build.  It has the distinct advantage 
> that there absolutely NO movement of the drill bit either sideways or 
> front-to-back, only up and down.  Its also about as inexpensive as you can get.
>
> Hope this helps!
>
> dwayne
>
>   
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