> How big was the drill press? Probably the issue is, with say a unit
> that will drill 1/2" holes, pushing down on the feed lever can create
> say 100lbs. of axial force on the drill bit

Yes, I know what you mean. I have a 1/2" bench press that I wouldn't
try to use with PCBs. Its chuck just about closes on a 3mm bit. If I
need smaller holes, say in 2mm steel that has to be tapped out to 3mm,
I've a smaller chuck (from an old cordless IIRC) on a 3/8" bolt to go in
the press 1/2" chuck

Bits from 1.2mm up can be used in hand drill, especially if the hole is
already drilled out with a pilot hole. Not a lot of pressure is needed,
actually less than the weight of the drill for the smaller diameters, so
you're holding the weight of the drill up whilst the bit is cutting

The minidrill press I tried was _OK_ but had no particular advantage
over the way I do them free hand. With the drill in my right hand, my
left index finger acts to push the drill straight down. With a good bit
there's very little resistance. One reason why I never use HSS now.
They're alright-ish on phenolic but dull quickly with glass board. I
must have done thousands of holes with this HSCo bit and it's still
sharp. With care, at an angle, I use it for thinning tracks, removing
bridges etc

> As for shortening and resharpening small bits, forget it unless you
> have a jig to hold the bit at the correct angles

I think you misunderstood. If the total length of the bit is 40mm and
20mm protrudes from the collet, then it's the plain shaft end that could
be shortened, not the cutting end. I'd have no expectations sharpening
a thin cobalt bit successfully

> Now I have a drill doctor drill sharpener. It does great on 1/8" - 3/4"

I have a Bosch bit sharpener as a drill attachment. For other tools a
sanding disc on the wood lathe is pretty good. A belt sander or angle
grinder is OK for things like shears, spades and loppers


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