Try with a normal 80gsm paper. See what happens. Also you can peel an A4 (or letter) size laser label off leaving the glossy part only. Stick that to the back of an 80gsm paper (using the peeled off label for example) so that you are printing onto the glossy face. Do not touch the paint with your hand after that because it will still unstable on that surface, therefore is just perfect for ironing it to the clad board. Tamas On Wed, Jul 15, 2009 at 11:49 PM, solarwind wrote: > On Wed, Jul 15, 2009 at 6:46 PM, solarwind wrote: > > On Wed, Jul 15, 2009 at 6:30 PM, Bob Blick wrote: > >> Steel wool or green scouring pad on the copper for some tooth. > > > > Used that, then that + sand paper on the second try. Still failed. > > > >> Wash and dry the board thoroughly. > > > > Did that. Still failed. > > > >> Use a few pieces of paper on top of the toner carrier paper when you > >> iron as a cushion for even pressure. You might need higher heat. > > > > Did that. Iron is on highest temperature (linen mode). Stil failed. > > > >> Before peeling, soak the board in water afterward until the toner > >> carrier sheet almost dissolves. > > > > My paper is pretty thick. It wont dissolve. > > > >> Touch up with a red Staedtler Lumocolor pen before etching. > > > > I shouldn't need to do that. There is too much not sticking. > > > > > > I tried magazine paper. All of it stuck - but none of it cleanly. > > There were holes all over the place and it was really messy. The photo > > paper gave the sharpest results but some parts didn't stick and it's > > really annoying. > > It should work like this: http://www.riccibitti.com/pcb/pcb.htm but it > doesn't... > -- > http://www.piclist.com PIC/SX FAQ & list archive > View/change your membership options at > http://mailman.mit.edu/mailman/listinfo/piclist > -- http://www.mcuhobby.com -- http://www.piclist.com PIC/SX FAQ & list archive View/change your membership options at http://mailman.mit.edu/mailman/listinfo/piclist