I modified 0805, making it can pass 15 mil track. It is very helpful!
Did same thing to sot-23, sot-23 liked port.

all pic footprint, I can do it reliably.
http://www.piclist.com/techref/TMPRmod.htm is making of mine years ago





----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Joseph Bento" <joseph@kirtland.com>
To: "Microcontroller discussion list - Public." <piclist@mit.edu>
Sent: Saturday, December 06, 2008 7:47 PM
Subject: Re: [EE] Make Your Own PCB


>
> On Dec 6, 2008, at 5:06 PM, Jinx wrote:
> >
> > 0402 (40mil x 20mil, 1mm x 0.5mm) components are probably at the limit
> > of hand-soldering, if you want to do the job in a reasonable time.
> > I've used
> > them when I had to, but would rather not
> >
> > http://articulationllc.home.comcast.net/~articulationllc/sm0402.htm
> >
> > Unless you're really tight on board space or trying to impress your
> > mother,
> > 0805 or 1206 are much more practical
>
>
> I'm inclined to agree.  0805 can be soldered with reasonably good
> eyesight without magnification.  0603 is easier with magnification,
> and 0402 it is a must - for my 45 year old eyes anyway.  I'd rather
> stay away from 0201 components, and fortunately the engineers at my
> company have obliged.
>
> My normal construction method involves a hypodermic applicator for
> paste solder, tweezers, and a 3 diopter magnification lamp.  (I've
> found that magnification greater than 3 diopter will not allow the
> tweezers or soldering iron to fit between the magnifier and board).
> Soldering is done either by hand with a Hakko temperature controlled
> iron or hotplate as described below.
>
> I'll generally apply the solder paste, and place all the components on
> the most populated side of the board (if double sided).  A hotplate,
> preheated to 200c is in wait, and the populated board is carefully
> placed on the hotplate.  It's quite amazing if one hasn't seen it
> before to watch the components flow perfectly in place and center
> themselves on the pads.  The board is carefully observed, and once all
> the paste has melted, I'll allow an additional 10 seconds or so, and
> then carefully slide the board off the hotplate onto an aluminum plate
> (I use the bottom cover from a Hammond chassis).  This will cool the
> board rather quickly, and then the board is inspected under the
> magnifier for any bridges on the chips, tombstoned components, etc.
> If the board is double-sided, the opposite side obviously must be
> entirely hand soldered.
>
> Alas, this method is generally not acceptable to place BGAs.  I have
> never attempted to hand solder a BGA, though it is apparently possible.
>
> My above method has been perfectly acceptable for engineering
> prototypes, and is certainly acceptable for a 1-off hobby project.
> Success rate has actually been close to 100%.  If we had more than
> five or so units to build, they'd usually be assembled at a board house.
>
> One of the more fun things to do today (I say in jest) is to use
> perfboard or Veroboard to build a SMD prototype.  Kapton tape, super
> glue, and kynar wire are now your best friends!
>
> Joe
>
> -- 
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