I believe you're in the realm of a Curtis 1220, but that is actually a 
120v (nominal) controller.
There are no samples that are going to do what you want. If you're going 
to build a high power controller on your own you should seriously 
consider using ISOTOP (TO227A?) packages. Then "all you have to do" is 
cut out some copper bus bars. You can use copper as a current measuring 
shunt if you use a 4-wire connection and have a tempco adjustment. I 
can't stress enough the need for very quick overcurrent sensing and 
protection. In my opinion current measurement is the most difficult part 
of designing high power motor controllers.
Cafe electric uses high-side drivers and IGBTs for their 1 and 2kA 
controllers. For 160v you're still in a good realm for MOSFETs I 
believe. I don't think you're looking at nearly $500 in parts for a 300A 
controller, but it will quickly add up the first time you blow up your 
expensive ISOTOP FETs and diodes. You'll certainly learn a lot. I'm 
interested now! I want to convert a motorcycle but the controller can be 
the same.
-
Martin

Byron Jeff wrote:
> Any ideas about the economics? If it isn't cost effective to hand build,
> then I probably won't waste time doing so. Say if the target is something
> like 160V, 300A, 16 KHz. What would be a sample MOSFET that could be
> paralleled to deliver that type of power? If it's going to be $500 in power
> electronics, then buying a controller would be the right move. However if
> the electronics are cheaper and you pay the rest with sweat equity, then it
> may be worth looking at.
>
>   
>>> OK. Will re-evaluate the car I have in that light. I think I read that it's
>>> close to 2000 lbs with the engine removed.
>>>       
>> Pre-1995 Geo Metro hatchback is good for economy, but has poor handling.
>> 1995-2001 Metro hatchback has much better handling and is still a light
>> car. But the Metros require a fairly short motor because underhood space
>> is limited.
>>     
>
> There's about a 125 lbs difference in the curb weights of the two vehicles
> (1993 Tercel (2002 lbs) vs. the Metro (1874 lbs for the 1997 hatchback)).
> While I understand that every pound counts, from a cost standpoint it
> simply doesn't make sense to me to get rid of a car that I already bought
> and paid for in order to buy a car that's a little over 100 lbs lighter.
>
> I must reiterate that cost is my primary concern. I'm not looking to invest
> $15K, $10K, or even $5K into this project. Even more than trying to
> minimize weight, I'm trying to minimize costs. And that's the costs of
> everything. I need to find something other than an Advance 9 motor because
> they run $1000 each for the low end model. I want to locate a cheap used
> battery pack, even if half of its lifetime is gone. I plan to use the car
> that I have. It's not a ultralight, but it isn't a boat anchor either. Like
> I said above I'd be willing to put sweat equity into a controller because
> commercial controllers are expensive.
>
> Say I have a free donor car and a $1K budget. Should I forget about it? I
> know this is a beg, borrow, scrounge project. I'm OK with foregoing pretty
> much everything except for cost and performance adequate enough to be safe
> on the roads. A vehicle that tops out at 10MPH, takes 20 minutes to
> accelerate to top speed, and has a range of 1 mile doesn't work. However, a
> bettery pack that'll only last for a year, a simple cheap controller, or an
> adapted lower voltage motor because it's cheap is doable.
>
>   
>> You pretty much need to retain the clutch. Only a skilled
>> driver can drive without one, and an electric motor doesn't spin down
>> when you take your foot off the pedal like a gas engine would.
>>     
>
> Now I'm confused. From what I've been reading I got the impression that it
> was the exact opposite. Releasing the accelerator stops the motor and that
> gears could be shifted without clutching. I absolutely don't mind retaining
> the clutch and I planned to do so. But I'd like to be clear about the
> situation you outline above.
>
>   
>>> Since I'm not planning on using a high end DC or AC motor, regenerative braking 
>>> probably won't be an option.
>>>       
>
>   
>> You can do regenerative braking with almost any motor,
>>     
>
> I thought that it was simple with AC motors but that the controller had to
> do a lot of work on series DC motors. High end Zapis do DC braking but that
> the low end Curtis' didn't.
>
>   
>> but in practice a skilled driver will outperform it!
>>     
>
> Good to know. Like I said I wasn't planning on it.
>
> Thanks for the information. Hope to hear more soon.
>
> BAJ
>   

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