That's the problem, the little aluminum box. The power connector is through the box wall, and the wall wart just plugs in. I need to keep the heat inside the box to a minimum, and mounting anything outside the box like a resistor is not possible. I'm trying to keep this as simple as possible, and where relatively untrained people (family) can do something like change out a board or wall wort. Bob Axtell wrote: > Carl Denk wrote: > >> subject=Re:[EE:] - Heat sink?? >> source= http://www.piclist.com/piclist/2006/11/23/121602a.txt? >> >> --- >> >> http://www.piclist.com/member/cdenk-alltel- >> PIC/PICList FAQ: http://www.piclist.com >> >> Here's the latest on this thread: >> Found some switching 5 volt wall warts that actually under my load are >> more like 5.4 volts actual. The PIC 18F1320 has 5.5 volt max. input, but >> the pressure sensors have a 5.2 volt max. Think I'll return the 5 volt >> wall warts to Digikey, and order a 6 volt switching or linear wall wart, >> and change the on board regulator from 7805 to a LDO LM2930T. The board >> is going to fabrication (quantity 3 or 4 to include spares to last a >> long time) with space for the TO3 regulator and a wire hole for direct 5 >> volt. >> >> Comments always appreciated. :) >> >> > Why not just increase the load, using an external 25 ohm resistor would > give you a constant 200mA > load and would probably make the wall wart switcher fall into 5.0v > range. There would be some heat, but > would be only (P=I*V; P=.2*5) or 1 watt. > > --Bob > > -- http://www.piclist.com PIC/SX FAQ & list archive View/change your membership options at http://mailman.mit.edu/mailman/listinfo/piclist