From: "Jinx" <joecolquitt@clear.net.nz>
Sent: Wednesday, November 15, 2006 11:33 PM


> The 10F is a little trickier though. For the prototype I'd suggest
> breaking connections to the rest of the circuit with a switch, as
> outlined in the page above. By using small pads this needn't take
> up too much room on a PCB. Alternatively you could mount one
> in an 8-pin socket and treat it as the DIP version. If this were
> to be a production run, maybe try this ; have pads for ICSP
> and use pogo pins. The pads would be split, ie two semicircles
> close together isolating the PIC from the circuit. After programming,
> by pressing the pogo pins on the PIC-side contacts, simply put a
> blob of solder down to bridge the two semicircles. At some later
> time you could wick the solder off to re-program

I like the split pad idea, though I don't think I'll be able to make a pogo 
pin jig.  More likely I'd solder temporary wires to the pads and use 
micro-clips

My PS+ is still running the old eprom firmware.  I was about to buy the 
flash upgrade module (as soon as I decide if I want 5 16F628A's or 25 for 
the price break from Mouser).  Would I be better putting the money towards 
another programmer instead of upgrading the PS+?





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