> 
> 
> I tried to use a solder sucker on the pins as another poster 
> suggested, and then carefully push them free. No luck, the 
> solder sucker didn't even get any solder out, I suspect the 
> way the pins are shaped on the back side seals off the air, I 
> did push everything tightly together while I was assembling 
> it to maintain a consistant board-to-board distance. Oh well. 
> I may try the high current trick, but only once I'm really 
> desperate, now that I've got the displays up and running I'm 
> finding that the shorted lines aren't too noticable unless 
> you look for them.
> 
> Fortunately I've got spares, but not many spares. I better 
> not screw up again!
> 

This may not be the time to practice, but I have found that when using a
Soldapult (the blue ones with the spring loaded plunger) I get better
results if I modify the solder sucker's tip.

Cut a small notch in the tip such that it will fit squarely over the pin
to be desoldered while the soldering iron is still in contact with the
pin, solder and pad.  

Leave the iron on the solder joint while "popping" the solder sucker.

Another trick that seems to help, especially with pins that have
connections to internal copper planes, is to "float" them with a little
fresh solder and flux before trying to use the solder sucker.  You have
to work fast and don't let the joint cool down.

It is definitely possible to damage a part this way due to overheating
so practice on old boards first.  

Working under a deadline is no time to learn new techniques, I'm sure
you would agree. :-(

Rob
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