Hello Jim Where did you get the information for ODB I ? I have several Fords in the 1991 to 1995 range. I thought ODBII started in 1996. Is that incorrect ? Regards Gus On 2006-Mar 09, at 9:09 PM, Paul James E. wrote: Kev, This sounds virtually identical to a unit I designed and built = about 7 or 8 years ago to decode the fault codes for Ford OBD I (~1985 - 1993). Mine worked out very well. I didn't offer to sell it, but I did = have a few people ask about it locally. I supplied them a programmed PIC and they bought the rest of the components and put it together. One = guy here still uses his the last time I talked to him. I believe there were = also a few inquiries from the PICLIST IIRC. I looked, but I no longer = have the source code or any of the info about mine. I still remember = some of it, but not enough off the top of my head to compare yours to mine. = Mine was general coverage, not specific to one type engine control though. I wish you luck in your endeavor. Regards, Jim > Hi, > > Thanks Russell for the reply. > > The project is a Fault Code Reader (FCR) for Ford Cosworth's (late = > 80's > supercar...). Normally you hook up an LED and count the number of > flashes then a pause and count some more, to read off any error code > the ECU is outputting. Then look up the code in a book/the internet > etc. > What I have done is fed this signal into a PIC and decoded the signal, > then displayed a more readable text version on the LCD. It can also > read multiple codes and display them. Next version will include a RTC > and a history log of the codes that can be output over serial to a = > PC. > Version 1 target price is circa =A350. > > I had looked at laminating a laser printed heavy paper but the problem > was the window for the LCD display was quite hazy and ruined the = > whole > purpose of the unit, i.e. the clear easy to read display. Might need > to look at some more expensive laminating pouches/laminator. > > Had also toyed with building a homemade cnc drill bot to both drill my > pcbs and to also cut out the front panel and maybe 'engrave' text on > them.... one day.... > > The only thing that worries me about this glueing it myself is the > consistency of the glue and it soaking into the paper.... > Maybe I just need to do some experimenting and see what happens. > > Thanks for the advice, I guess I just need to go and play some > more..... > > > Cheers > > Kev/. > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Russell McMahon" > To: "Microcontroller discussion list - Public." > Sent: Friday, March 10, 2006 11:14 AM > Subject: Re: [EE] Finishing Touches > > >>> I'm very close to having finished my first semi commericial poject [ >>> amatuer >>> but to sell on ebay ;-) ]. >> >> For interest, what's the approximate target price? >> And, what does it do? >> >>> My problem is how do I present this in the box and make it look = >>> worth >>> the >>> money? >> >> A low volume low cost labelling method that can look surprisingly = >> good >> is to use a laser or inkjet (or other) printer to produce "front >> panel" and then overlay this with "contact" plastic covering such as >> is intended for use on book covers. This comes in various >> qualities/weights and use of a better quality one is probably = >> advised. >> This label can be attached to the box with the adhesive of your >> choice. PVA glue works well for many plastics. Care needs to be taken >> with glue consistency (wateriness) as you can affect the label from >> soaking if too wet and it won't spread as well if too thick. A bit of >> experimenting can produce quite creditable results. This is somewhat >> akin to laminating except the top layer is stuck on and the bottom >> layer is the box. >> >> Dealing with edges can be an issue. If you print the label on a = >> larger >> than final piece of paper (usually what would happen anyway) and then >> apply a piece of "contact" larger than the finished label you can = >> trim >> it to size so that the plastic comes to exactly the edge of the = >> label. >> This looks good BUT the edge is open to water intrusion. This often >> does not matter but may in some cases. For straight lines a steel = >> rule >> and sharp knife and some experience is a good idea - or a guillotine >> or roller trimmer. Scissors may be OK if you have better >> hand/eye/brain coordination than I have. >> >> There are many grades of PVA glue - use a good one. Some have >> anti-mould in them which can be useful. Other types of adhesive may >> work well for you. You could use water resistant paper etc to improve >> resistance to water penetration. I haven't tried using silicon rubber >> as adhesive but suspect that it may do a superb job if you can >> tolerate the need to hold the job together for some hours. >> >> If best environmental performance is more important than ultimate >> looks then you can cut the plastic larger than the printed label so >> there is a sealing edge around the outside. This can look less >> "professional" but BE more professional. Alignment can be 'fun' when >> done this way. >> >> Inkjet ink will fade in time in high UV environments. Appropriate >> choice of paper, ink and plastic covering will help reduce this. >> >> Labels made with this method can include photos and other artwork and >> scanned material. The end result can look so good that minor defects >> in execution or the method are largely minimised. Holes can be cut or >> punched through the plastic/paper label before fitting or afterwards. >> If done afterwards tidiness of edges may be a greater challenge. >> >> >> >> Russell McMahon >> >> -- = >> http://www.piclist.com PIC/SX FAQ & list archive >> View/change your membership options at >> http://mailman.mit.edu/mailman/listinfo/piclist >> > > > -- = > http://www.piclist.com PIC/SX FAQ & list archive > View/change your membership options at > http://mailman.mit.edu/mailman/listinfo/piclist -- = http://www.piclist.com PIC/SX FAQ & list archive View/change your membership options at http://mailman.mit.edu/mailman/listinfo/piclist -- = http://www.piclist.com PIC/SX FAQ & list archive View/change your membership options at http://mailman.mit.edu/mailman/listinfo/piclist