Kev, This sounds virtually identical to a unit I designed and built about 7 or 8 years ago to decode the fault codes for Ford OBD I (~1985 - 1993). Mine worked out very well. I didn't offer to sell it, but I did have a = few people ask about it locally. I supplied them a programmed PIC and they bought the rest of the components and put it together. One guy here still uses his the last time I talked to him. I believe there were also = a few inquiries from the PICLIST IIRC. I looked, but I no longer have the source code or any of the info about mine. I still remember some of it, but not enough off the top of my head to compare yours to mine. Mine was general coverage, not specific to one type engine control though. = I wish you luck in your endeavor. Regards, Jim > Hi, > = > Thanks Russell for the reply. > = > The project is a Fault Code Reader (FCR) for Ford Cosworth's (late 80's > supercar...). Normally you hook up an LED and count the number of > flashes then a pause and count some more, to read off any error code > the ECU is outputting. Then look up the code in a book/the internet > etc. > What I have done is fed this signal into a PIC and decoded the signal, > then displayed a more readable text version on the LCD. It can also > read multiple codes and display them. Next version will include a RTC > and a history log of the codes that can be output over serial to a PC. > Version 1 target price is circa =A350. > = > I had looked at laminating a laser printed heavy paper but the problem > was the window for the LCD display was quite hazy and ruined the whole > purpose of the unit, i.e. the clear easy to read display. Might need > to look at some more expensive laminating pouches/laminator. > = > Had also toyed with building a homemade cnc drill bot to both drill my > pcbs and to also cut out the front panel and maybe 'engrave' text on > them.... one day.... > = > The only thing that worries me about this glueing it myself is the = > consistency of the glue and it soaking into the paper.... > Maybe I just need to do some experimenting and see what happens. > = > Thanks for the advice, I guess I just need to go and play some > more..... > = > = > Cheers > = > Kev/. > = > = > ----- Original Message ----- = > From: "Russell McMahon" > To: "Microcontroller discussion list - Public." > Sent: Friday, March 10, 2006 11:14 AM > Subject: Re: [EE] Finishing Touches > = > = >>> I'm very close to having finished my first semi commericial poject [ >>> amatuer >>> but to sell on ebay ;-) ]. >> >> For interest, what's the approximate target price? >> And, what does it do? >> >>> My problem is how do I present this in the box and make it look worth >>> the >>> money? >> >> A low volume low cost labelling method that can look surprisingly good >> is to use a laser or inkjet (or other) printer to produce "front >> panel" and then overlay this with "contact" plastic covering such as >> is intended for use on book covers. This comes in various >> qualities/weights and use of a better quality one is probably advised. >> This label can be attached to the box with the adhesive of your >> choice. PVA glue works well for many plastics. Care needs to be taken >> with glue consistency (wateriness) as you can affect the label from >> soaking if too wet and it won't spread as well if too thick. A bit of >> experimenting can produce quite creditable results. This is somewhat >> akin to laminating except the top layer is stuck on and the bottom >> layer is the box. >> >> Dealing with edges can be an issue. If you print the label on a larger >> than final piece of paper (usually what would happen anyway) and then >> apply a piece of "contact" larger than the finished label you can trim >> it to size so that the plastic comes to exactly the edge of the label. >> This looks good BUT the edge is open to water intrusion. This often >> does not matter but may in some cases. For straight lines a steel rule >> and sharp knife and some experience is a good idea - or a guillotine >> or roller trimmer. Scissors may be OK if you have better >> hand/eye/brain coordination than I have. >> >> There are many grades of PVA glue - use a good one. Some have >> anti-mould in them which can be useful. Other types of adhesive may >> work well for you. You could use water resistant paper etc to improve >> resistance to water penetration. I haven't tried using silicon rubber >> as adhesive but suspect that it may do a superb job if you can >> tolerate the need to hold the job together for some hours. >> >> If best environmental performance is more important than ultimate >> looks then you can cut the plastic larger than the printed label so >> there is a sealing edge around the outside. This can look less >> "professional" but BE more professional. Alignment can be 'fun' when >> done this way. >> >> Inkjet ink will fade in time in high UV environments. Appropriate >> choice of paper, ink and plastic covering will help reduce this. >> >> Labels made with this method can include photos and other artwork and >> scanned material. The end result can look so good that minor defects >> in execution or the method are largely minimised. Holes can be cut or >> punched through the plastic/paper label before fitting or afterwards. >> If done afterwards tidiness of edges may be a greater challenge. >> >> >> >> Russell McMahon >> >> -- = >> http://www.piclist.com PIC/SX FAQ & list archive >> View/change your membership options at >> http://mailman.mit.edu/mailman/listinfo/piclist >> = > = > = > -- = > http://www.piclist.com PIC/SX FAQ & list archive > View/change your membership options at > http://mailman.mit.edu/mailman/listinfo/piclist -- = http://www.piclist.com PIC/SX FAQ & list archive View/change your membership options at http://mailman.mit.edu/mailman/listinfo/piclist