I had good success using clear sheets meant for laser printing. These sheet were for overhead projectors I think. I printed the image in = mirror image so that I could flip the sheet over and protect the laser = printing. I also used laser gel paper. I printed a regular image and then = transferred the image to glass or plastic using a hot clothes iron. I then = soaked the transfer paper off. I do not know if this transfer paper is still made. I have some unused pieces ( small ) that you can experiment with. I am planning to see if I can make this paper by screening gelatin onto a rugged laser paper ( glossy ? ) AGSC On 2006-Mar 10, at 8:19 AM, Kev Pearce ((kevp.com)) wrote: Hi, Thanks Russell for the reply. The project is a Fault Code Reader (FCR) for Ford Cosworth's (late 80's supercar...). Normally you hook up an LED and count the number of = flashes then a pause and count some more, to read off any error code the ECU is outputting. Then look up the code in a book/the internet etc. What I have done is fed this signal into a PIC and decoded the = signal, then displayed a more readable text version on the LCD. It can also read = multiple codes and display them. Next version will include a RTC and a history = log of the codes that can be output over serial to a PC. Version 1 target price is circa =A350. I had looked at laminating a laser printed heavy paper but the = problem was the window for the LCD display was quite hazy and ruined the whole = purpose of the unit, i.e. the clear easy to read display. Might need to look = at some more expensive laminating pouches/laminator. Had also toyed with building a homemade cnc drill bot to both drill = my pcbs and to also cut out the front panel and maybe 'engrave' text on = them.... one day.... The only thing that worries me about this glueing it myself is the consistency of the glue and it soaking into the paper.... Maybe I just need to do some experimenting and see what happens. Thanks for the advice, I guess I just need to go and play some more..... Cheers Kev/. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Russell McMahon" To: "Microcontroller discussion list - Public." Sent: Friday, March 10, 2006 11:14 AM Subject: Re: [EE] Finishing Touches >> I'm very close to having finished my first semi commericial poject >> [ amatuer >> but to sell on ebay ;-) ]. > > For interest, what's the approximate target price? > And, what does it do? > >> My problem is how do I present this in the box and make it look >> worth the >> money? > > A low volume low cost labelling method that can look surprisingly good > is to use a laser or inkjet (or other) printer to produce "front > panel" and then overlay this with "contact" plastic covering such as > is intended for use on book covers. This comes in various > qualities/weights and use of a better quality one is probably advised. > This label can be attached to the box with the adhesive of your > choice. PVA glue works well for many plastics. Care needs to be taken > with glue consistency (wateriness) as you can affect the label from > soaking if too wet and it won't spread as well if too thick. A bit of > experimenting can produce quite creditable results. This is somewhat > akin to laminating except the top layer is stuck on and the bottom > layer is the box. > > Dealing with edges can be an issue. If you print the label on a larger > than final piece of paper (usually what would happen anyway) and then > apply a piece of "contact" larger than the finished label you can trim > it to size so that the plastic comes to exactly the edge of the label. > This looks good BUT the edge is open to water intrusion. This often > does not matter but may in some cases. For straight lines a steel rule > and sharp knife and some experience is a good idea - or a guillotine > or roller trimmer. Scissors may be OK if you have better > hand/eye/brain coordination than I have. > > There are many grades of PVA glue - use a good one. Some have > anti-mould in them which can be useful. Other types of adhesive may > work well for you. You could use water resistant paper etc to improve > resistance to water penetration. I haven't tried using silicon rubber > as adhesive but suspect that it may do a superb job if you can > tolerate the need to hold the job together for some hours. > > If best environmental performance is more important than ultimate > looks then you can cut the plastic larger than the printed label so > there is a sealing edge around the outside. This can look less > "professional" but BE more professional. Alignment can be 'fun' when > done this way. > > Inkjet ink will fade in time in high UV environments. Appropriate > choice of paper, ink and plastic covering will help reduce this. > > Labels made with this method can include photos and other artwork and > scanned material. The end result can look so good that minor defects > in execution or the method are largely minimised. Holes can be cut or > punched through the plastic/paper label before fitting or afterwards. > If done afterwards tidiness of edges may be a greater challenge. > > > > Russell McMahon > > -- = > http://www.piclist.com PIC/SX FAQ & list archive > View/change your membership options at > http://mailman.mit.edu/mailman/listinfo/piclist > -- = http://www.piclist.com PIC/SX FAQ & list archive View/change your membership options at http://mailman.mit.edu/mailman/listinfo/piclist -- = http://www.piclist.com PIC/SX FAQ & list archive View/change your membership options at http://mailman.mit.edu/mailman/listinfo/piclist