On 1/16/06, Peter <plp@actcom.co.il> wrote:
> >
> > So I couldn't just buy a tube of conductive epoxy and use that? Any reason in
> > particular why it wouldn't work?
> > What about low-melting-point metal alloy (I've got some indium-bismuth-lead
> > LMP alloy somewhere that melts at about 100C)?
> >
> > BTW, it looks like these are "heat seal" connectors, which explains the
> > Sellotape on the cable. The backside of the cable is bare - the tape is there
> > to stop it getting torn off the board and also to protect the carbon
> > strips.
> >
> > That just leaves the problem of removing the strip without tearing the carbon
> > off (or finding a way to remove the rather sticky plastic tape - same
> > problem).
>
> Conductive assembly has nothing whatsoever to do with heat, excepting that
> soldering requires a certain temperature to achieve the melting and wetting of
> the metals involved.
>

I worked for a cell phone manufacturer and we connected our LCDs with
heat seal.  The factory had a fancy (and expensive) machine to heat
the joint, but for prototype and repairs, a soldering iron set to low
temperature did the job well enough.  Clean the tip first, and keep it
moving so you don't melt the plastic.  The right temperature to make a
good connection seems to be right below the temperature to start
melting things.  So keep trying a little more heat, then test, etc.
until all the segments work.  The pads on the PCB didn't get any
speical treatment as I recall, just tinned copper.

Regards.
Mark
markrages@gmail
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