I have attained excellent results using magazine paper in a laser
printer.  Try some different magazines until you find the paper that's
right, the best stuff is clay soaked or something, the toner comes off
nice and doesn't smush out like it does when using Avery crack-and-peel
backing . . .

best of all is it's free.

Another good trick is using a spring-loaded center punch for the hole
location, then dremel for a drill, I can knock out a board in no time
flat.  But wire wrapping is still way cool in my book.

Regards, John.




--- Dan Crews <crews.dan@gmail.com> wrote:
> Just to add my voice to the Cacophony, 
> 
> I've switched to making my own PCB's for prototyping and haven't
> looked back.  
> 
> I use the pulsar toner-transfer system that needs tape,  access to a
> laser printer(or photocopier), and a clothes iron(you have bought one
> by now, haven't you?).  a PCB can be printed and masked in 5 min. and
> etched in about 10.
> 
> http://www.pulsar.gs/index.html
> 
> setup cost:
> 
> Toner-transfer paper:  $15 from digikey, mouser or . . . (+ ~$5 for
> shipping)
> plated board:       $5.00 from radio-shack
> Ferric chloride:        $5.00 from radio-shack
> etching tray, sponges, gloves, steel wool, tape, skittles, and other
> needed lab gear: $5-10
> 
> so for about $30-40 you can get up to speed and make your own pcb's
> with a time cost of the artwork time +15 min.  At that point, if a
> minor mistake is made, you kick yourself for five minutes, rework the
> artwork for five, and recreate in 15, and you're back up and running
> in under a 1/2 hr.
> 
> Dan Crews, E.I.T.
> (crews.dan@gmail.com)  <><
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