I agree partialy The led in the opto is drawn reversed diagram with external led is pic pin--------[Resistor]---->|------>|-------gnd current depending on optocoupler probably around 10 ma however , forward drop in led's is generally between 1.5 and 1.7 volt (at currents of a few ma) for a 5 volt supply of the pic we have on the resistor 5-1.5-1.5=2 volt this gives an r of 2/0.01=200 ohm Be aware that with a single transistor optoisolator the ratio between input and output current (current transfer ratio) is usually less than 100% (you send more current in than you can switch). What I would do is test your camera by wiring a resistor in series with a switch on the shutter input and checking with how high of a value resistor the camera reliably snaps a picture, then measure the current thru the resistor so you have an idea about what you need. start with 1 kohm or so and keep halving it down 5k,2k2,1k5 etc in subsequential steps. Kind regards Peter van Hoof ----- Original Message ----- From: "Robert Monsen" To: Sent: Wednesday, July 14, 2004 2:39 AM Subject: Re: [EE:] Rocket timer > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Mike" > To: > Sent: Wednesday, July 14, 2004 1:02 AM > Subject: Re: [EE:] Rocket timer > > > > I redesigned the schematic, but I'm not sure if the opto is hooked up > > properly, that is just a general opto, I will be using a better one. Also > if > > I put a series red led(I have multiple sizes) wat voltage drop should I > > expect across it. > > > > > > http://www.angelfire.com/mech/homerov/rocket/schem.jpg > > > > -- > > http://www.piclist.com hint: To leave the PICList > > mailto:piclist-unsubscribe-request@mitvma.mit.edu > > Optoisolators work by passing current through the LED. Thus, the left side > is upside down in your picture, the diode should be facing downwards. > > The voltage drop across it is going to be something like 0.7V on the left > side, and something like 0.2V on the right side (unless you use a > darlington) > > Look up the datasheet of the optoisolator you decide on, and make sure the > resistor is sized appropriately to give it enough current to saturate the > transistor in the opto. If you use a darlington opto, that will be easier, > but it'll have a bigger voltage drop on the output side, maybe 1V. > > One thing is that you've added pullups to GP0 and GP1; you don't need them > if you turn on the 'weak internal pullups' in your initialization code. > > Finally, you need some caps around that regulator. Look at the datasheet for > the 7805; you see that it needs at least a 0.1uF cap on the output for > stability and transient response. If you are running your solenoid off of > the same 9V battery, you will also need an input cap of something like > 0.33uF. > > Regards, > Bob Monsen > > -- > http://www.piclist.com hint: To leave the PICList > mailto:piclist-unsubscribe-request@mitvma.mit.edu > -- http://www.piclist.com hint: To leave the PICList mailto:piclist-unsubscribe-request@mitvma.mit.edu