There are a few things you could do. If you experiment with any regularity, a lab supply purchase isn't something you'd regret. You can get one without breaking the bank if you shop around a bit. Something you might want to consider is a current limiting supply for experimentation purposes. Its really easy to cook something with a moment of carelessness and a 7 amp psu. A supply that scrambles when a current level is crossed can save your experiment from that wonderful epoxy smell. http://www.elexp.com/tst_1802.htm is an example of a fairly cheap lab supply. I haven't personally used this but it looks OK for the price. Shop around first if you decide to purchase one a supply. You might think about building a lab supply as an educational experience. I've built a few in EE school and they were pretty fun projects. I still actually use one of them fairly regularly, even with the "store bought" ones I have access to now. There are lots of schematics out on the web describing this --some even with a lm317 and outboard transistors. http://myweb.cableone.net/wheedal/pcbconstruct/psu_cv.jpg is a picture of a supply I did when in school. Enclosed in a discarded UPS box. LCD driven with 16f84/external adc. Switchers generate noise, so they might not be the first choice for a lab supply if you are doing small signal analog/12bit adc stuff as well. Just my $.02 and worth about as much. -----Original Message----- On Behalf Of Michael Olson I've been using a Radio Shack 13.8VDC/3A supply feeding a LM317 w/ Heat Sink for my breadboarding setup so far. But I don't think my current configuration is going to be good for a steady 4.4W even if I improve the heatsink. I'm debating between the quick fixes and something I don't see outgrowing any time soon. Options I'm considering now are 1 - Moving over to a 5V switching setup, perhaps the PT5101A. (http://focus.ti.com/docs/prod/folders/print/pt5101.html) 2 - Find a 5V switching wall wart, or a 7V unregulated to feed a 7805. 3 - Raiding e-Bay for a new bench power supply. (Any shopping tips?) 4 - The Fun solution: Converting an Antec QuietPower. It seems to me that by just installing the power supply into a project box and hooking up via an ATX 20 pin connector that you could preserve the warrenty and certifications. I was thinking it might be a fun project to put a front panel Voltage and Current meter for each output and perhaps a setable emergency shutoff based on the current being drawn. Any reason I couldn't use a PICs A/D inputs referencing a precision voltage reference hooked up across the output for the voltage and across a very low value resistor for the current? While this has a great deal of appeal it's a bit more of a down the road solution as I need a better power supply now. Are there better options I'm missing or anything wrong with the ideas I have so far? --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.698 / Virus Database: 455 - Release Date: 6/2/2004 -- http://www.piclist.com hint: The PICList is archived three different ways. See http://www.piclist.com/#archives for details.