The neutral is not available a good percentage of the time at a standard
single pole switch in a home. In many cases a two-wire (plus safety ground)
cable brings hot to the switch and switched-hot back to the load.

> You'll have to leak current through the load like this.
>
> Hot -> Control -> X1 -> Switch -> X2 -> Load -> Neutral
>
> Where X1 and X2 are connected so that the control and switch can be
powered
> through the load even when the switch is disengaged leaking a minimal
amount
> of current through the load. You can even use a resistor or cap and a
zener
> to limit the voltage and current going around the switch so that the load
> doesn't get enough power to activate.
>
> But again other than the academic exercise, why bother. Connect X1
directly to
> the neutral and be done with the task.
>
> Or am I missing something significant?
>
> BAJ
>
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