The acetone part scares me a little. Acetone will dissolve some common
plastics.
I keep a couple of small bottles of automatic transmission oil on my machine
tools and use it for a general purpose lube and protector. I suppose a lower
viscosity might penetrate better.

I generally use either a shampoo bottle or a hand cream bottle.

John Ferrell
http://DixieNC.US

----- Original Message -----
From: "Gustaf J. Barkstrom" <gustaf.b@COX.NET>
To: <PICLIST@MITVMA.MIT.EDU>
Sent: Sunday, February 29, 2004 10:54 AM
Subject: [OT:] Metal protectant


> The discussion about ferric chloride reminded me of this tidbit of
> information that I've always found useful...
>
> Along the lines of protecting your steel tools, both hand
> and machine tools, here's a substance you can make yourself
> that will help keep the value, operability, and appearance of your tools
in
> top shape.
>
> It's called "Ed's Red Bore Cleaner".  Check out the full article:
> http://www.steveellis.com/eds-red.pdf
>
>
> Here is the recipe:
>
> 1 part Dexron II, IIe, or III automatic transmission fluid. (must say
Dexron
> II, IIe, or III on the bottle)
>
> 1 part kerosene, deodorized ("K1" space heater oil, some lamp oils).
>
> 1 part acetone
>
> 1 part aliphatic mineral spirits ("Stoddard Solvent", "Varsol")
>
> Optional: up to 1 pound (~0.5kg) anhydrous lanolin per 1 gallon (~4l) of
the
> other ingredients.  You may substitute Modified Lanolin Topical Lubricant
> from the drug store if you can't find anhydrous lanolin.  The lanolin is
> optional because it "makes the cleaner easier on the hands".  It's also
> intended for long-term storage of firearms (or your tools) between
> cleanings.  If you use your tools lots, which you probably do, you can
leave
> the lanolin out.
>
> Instructions:  Mix outdoors in a metal or gasoline-approved plastic
> container.  Do NOT mix in an HDPE plastic container (milk cartons, orange
> juice bottles, and many food containers are HDPE, and they are marked HDPE
> on the bottom, near the recycling symbol usually). Also avoid LDPE. (HDPE
=
> high density polyethelyne, LDPE = low density polyethelyne).
>
> I personally use an old fashioned zinc-plated steel gas can, works like a
> charm, and there's no chance of the can EVER rusting with this stuff in
it.
>
> The kerosene is available as "lamp oil" but some lamp oils are liquid
> parafin (sic), so read the label before buying.
>
> Acetone and aliphatic mineral spirits are available at your local hardware
> warehouse store in the paint aisle.
>
> Automatic transmission fluid is available at any auto parts store.
>
> I purchased everything in 1 quart quantities, and left out the lanolin.
> That makes one gallon, which fits nicely into a 1 or 1.5 gallon gas can.
>
> This stuff is designed to remove carbon deposits, light rust, and lead
> fowling.  It's good for removing stray solder bits from steel tools, and
> will dissolve solder rosin that gets on tools.  The automatic transmission
> fluid is the key ingredient; it seeps into the metal protecting it from
> further/future rust.  I use it once a month on my nippers, needle nose
> pliers, and heck, everything.  Dunk your drillbits in it and wipe them
down
> with a rag before storage.
>
> Full description: http://www.steveellis.com/eds-red.pdf
>
> Gustaf
>
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