> Just a couple of questions > - any suggestions on a value for the photo transistor collectors > - ditto for the R in series with the motor > - where are the photo-diodes driven from? I can only provide general pointers. I just don't have the experience to speak with any authority The BU508AF has quite a low hfe, typically < 5, so (depending on the motor wattage ?) the resistor must be capable of passing enough current to turn the BU508 hard on. The opto must be rated for that current too, for when it grounds the base The SCR gate resistors depends on the gate current needed. For the BT151-800R this is around 10mA The H-bridge was to be controlled with PIC PWM. Provision was to be made for the PIC to be on before the HV section so as to get control of the optos However, I really hate bangs and smoke and have to admit being more than a little reticent to actually make this circuit. Although I was talking with people obviously more learned than myself, there was some disagreement between them. In future I think I'll stick to DC motors and just turn AC motors on/off. Variable speed synchronous drive seems like a hell of a lot of work and just not worth it for a one-off This is a quote about the series resistor and other parts ====================================================== You need a series R for sure. Measure the DCR or the motor winding using a DVM and set R equal to that for starters. You will be able to reduce it to 1/10 to 1/100 of the motor's DCR later. The filter inductor is not needed imho. However you could use a capacitor instead of it to pseudo-resonate the motor at the working frequency. This only works with very small motors and large capacitors rated for mains ac and high ac current. So imho short out the choke and remove it. R will dissipate a lot of heat when large. Plan on 20W ceramic body for start. Even better, read on: If you have a drive glitch the bridge will self destruct. You will have drive glitches. The zeners in the thyristor gates are superfluous. They will never conduct either way. You are using too many parts imho. The firing scenario of the thyristors is dubious imho. You are driving a coil so when the opposite NPN opens, the Cathode voltage will drop, but there will be no current on the thyristor. Only its gate current will flow through the coil. Later the coil begins to suck current and the thyristor will fire suddenly. I don't know what this will do to your waveform, but it will not help it to be a better sinus, for sure. Meanwhile the gate resistor on the other thyristor has almost 320V at 30mA across it, which is 10W or so. This for half the time (so 5W). The resistor will need to be 15W probably. The drive circuit alone will likely burn about 15-20W (efficiency 65-70% ?). A transformer would outperform it imho. When the NPN turns off the motor L will generate a terrific kickback and continue to run current through the thyristor and the opposite thyristor's reverse diode. This current will continue to flow until the L and the mechanical motor load and eddy currents and Murphy decide it is time for it to stop. If this is a little bit later than when you open the NPN under it for the next half cycle, you lose (everything). Me, I'd have used two (2 pcs) MOSFETs for this in a scheme like so: +320V +-------------(K D1 A)---+--(R2)--uP ONLY! [EE]:,[OT]: ->Other [BUY]:,[AD]: ->Ads