In most cases you will have redundant grounds anyway. In addition to the ground rod, you should have a solid protective ground through your incoming water line (especially if it is a copper line). Even your gas pipes are often bonded to the protective ground. Bob Ammerman RAm Systems ----- Original Message ----- From: "Charles Craft" To: Sent: Wednesday, August 27, 2003 8:35 PM Subject: Re: [EE:] Relocating house earth ground > Thanks for all the great feedback. > > I've decided to skip the rewiring and just pile the pine straw > a little higher on that side of the house. :-) > > thanks > > > -------Original Message------- > From: John Ferrell > Sent: 08/27/03 08:06 PM > To: PICLIST@MITVMA.MIT.EDU > Subject: Re: [EE:] Relocating house earth ground > > > > > A couple of items: > It sounds like your specs passed inspection, so you must be right. I have > been concerned about trying to ground a lightning strike through rebar, it > seems to me the concrete could erupt with violence. > > I like the idea of multiple grounds but most experts recomend one and only > one ground point to avoid large ground currents in storms. Perhaps the > important part of that scheme is to make the tie point at the panel? > > John Ferrell > 6241 Phillippi Rd > Julian NC 27283 > Phone: (336)685-9606 > johnferrell@earthlink.net > Dixie Competition Products > NSRCA 479 AMA 4190 W8CCW > "My Competition is Not My Enemy" > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: > To: > Sent: Wednesday, August 27, 2003 12:49 PM > Subject: Re: [EE:] Relocating house earth ground > > > > In my NEW house, if I ever get started building it anyway, there will be > a > > piece of rebar sticking out of the floor under the panelboard. This > rebar > > will be tied to the other rebar in the slab, not just stuck into the > > concrete. Yeah, I will put a silly wire to a ridiculous rod in the > ground > > to make the inspector happy, but the real ground will be to the rebar. > > When I used to specify commercial panelboards, the prefferred ground was > > either a rebar sticking out of a concrete slab, or a cadweld onto a > handy > > steel beam. Or both. I would usually specify at least 3 different > > connections to steel and concrete all coming to a single point at the > main > > panelboard. Rebar in concrete has a far lower resistance than a copper > > rod driven into dry ground. BTW these methods are all recognized by NEC > > code. > > > > > > > > -- Lawrence Lile > > > > > > -- > http://www.piclist.com hint: The PICList is archived three different > ways. See http://www.piclist.com/#archives for details. > > > > -- > http://www.piclist.com hint: The PICList is archived three different > ways. See http://www.piclist.com/#archives for details. > -- http://www.piclist.com hint: The PICList is archived three different ways. See http://www.piclist.com/#archives for details.