On Thursday 12 June 2003 15:40, Stephen Webb scribbled:
> Well my learning curve was painful.

I thought PIC's were relatively easy to learn.  Just bug all the people o=
n=20
this list :-)


> I totally agree with you that the 16F628 is a great part (it's my pic o=
f
> choice...throw in an A/D convertor and I'd be in love...)

16F872 baybee!!!


> I guess my point is that, sure it's only a minor hassle to disable the
> comparators to use port A, but you have to know to do it (and now

Bingo!  Precisely why 6 months ago, I would've still recommended the 16F8=
4. =20
When all else failed, just copy the code of any project on the web and tr=
y=20
it.  Then experiment from there.  But as time moves on, the 16F628 is get=
ting=20
better documented.


> that you've mentioned it, he will know...)  I just remember my first fe=
w
> days of tring to get an LED to flash.  W register?  ORG
> 0x04?  WDT...TRISA...MCLR...ok does 0=3D5V or 1=3D5V.  Is my supply cle=
an
> enough? Did this part get programmed?  Is anybody home...?  So adding m=
ore
> complexity would have probably meant more frustration (and no doubt mor=
e
> insane theories about why the PIC still wasn't working)
>
> Plus the fact that my first programmer failed to program anything but
> 16F84 parts...

This was a pseudo-painful part for me ... tried a bunch of programmers, n=
one=20
of which worked.  Until I discovered the Tait.


> Also I haven't used an 18 series part yet, so I can't comment on those =
(I
> had in my head that they were "high end" / "expensive", so I've stayed
> away...)

They are, relatively... IIRC Digikey's lowest 1-pc price on anything 18F =
is=20
approx $8.  16F628 is approx $3.  Considering a newbie is very liable to =
do=20
some damage by incorrectly wiring up the chip or accidentally making some=
=20
input an output, or whatever, I'd still recommend the 16F628.


>
> -Steve

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