If anyone knows who sells them in North America (those eyelets), I would appreciate knowing since they seem like a good investment :-) Not that there is any substitute for good board layout, they definitely seem like a nifty addition... Quoting Picdude : > If I solder and re-solder on a pad a half-dozen times, it will lift > eventually. Perhaps you're overheating the board as it is? Try the very > slowest setting. No need for anything too fast as the board drills quite > quickly. > > Yes, plan ahead, or look for those eyelets Chris L. just mentioned. I've > never found a source for them in the US, so haven't bothered to try. But if > > I get my hands on some, I definitely will. It's the last step in making > fully professional boards. > > Cheers, > -Neil. > > > > > On Thursday 24 April 2003 20:04, Jai Dhar wrote: > > Well, I'm using a good quality Dremel Multipro tool with the drill stand, > > but not on the highest speed setting or anything. I'm on the 3rd setting > > out of 10, and the reason I do'nt go higher is because smoke is coming out > > of the board when I drill a hole, heh. I'm afraid if I go faster, it will > > light the board on fire or melt it :-) But I will give it a try just to > > see. As for the soldering, it seems that the best way to do it is plan a > > bit ahead, or place vias near it. It's a shame because it took so much > work > > to do my current board, I don't want to do it again :-( I guess you learn > > these things along the way.... > > > > Quoting Picdude : > > > Sounds like a problem with the brand or PCB you're using, or perhaps a > > > bad (dull) drill bit...? I have not had this problem, using > > > harbor-freight drill > > > > > > bits, and a drill press operating at about 1000 rpm. > > > > > > Many techniques to solder w/o plated-thru holes.... > > > - Suspend part about 1/4" (more or less depending on part) above board > so > > > you > > > > > > have access to solder the top. Works well for me, except I question > the > > > mechanical hold on the part if I'm going to use the board in a vehicle, > > > etc. - Tin the leads on the part, solder same as above, then slowly push > > > the part > > > > > > down while keeping the lead heated, and sort of "squish" the solder on. > > > I've > > > > > > had poor results with this. > > > - Design the board so that the pads are mostly on the bottom, except > > > where you > > > know you have access to the top (like vertically-mounted axial caps, > > > etc). I > > > > > > always do this nowadays and it definitely solves a lot of problems. > > > - Add additional vias just outside of the component pads and component > > > dimensions for the connection. > > > > > > > > > Cheers, > > > -Neil. > > > > > > On Thursday 24 April 2003 19:20, Jai Dhar wrote: > > > > Hello all, > > > > > > > > I just finished my first double sided board using UV to transfer the > > > > tracks. The board turned out really well, except I'm having a problem > > > > > > while > > > > > > > drilling. When drilling holes that don't have a track attached (ie: > > > > just a pad), the pad lifts off the board and goes onto the drill bit? > > > > It really isn't a HUGE problem since there is no track attached, but I > > > > do lose a soldering point... which brings me to my next question. > > > > > > > > Are there any techniques used for soldering a component on both sides > > > > of the board? What I mean is that it's easy to solder the bottom side > > > > of the board since it's just the component leads that stick out... but > > > > on the top side, I have to sorta squeeze the iron between the board > and > > > > the component - this can easily burn the component, and it looks kind > > > > of messy since the component isn't all the way down against the board. > > > > But I can't think of any other way to solder it to the top tracks??? I > > > > hope I have explained myself clearly, > > > > > > > > Thank you, > > > > > > > > Jai > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ---------------------------------------- > > > > This mail sent through www.mywaterloo.ca > > > > > > -- > > > http://www.piclist.com hint: The PICList is archived three different > > > ways. See http://www.piclist.com/#archives for details. > > > > ---------------------------------------- > > This mail sent through www.mywaterloo.ca > > -- > http://www.piclist.com hint: The PICList is archived three different > ways. See http://www.piclist.com/#archives for details. > ---------------------------------------- This mail sent through www.mywaterloo.ca -- http://www.piclist.com hint: The PICList is archived three different ways. See http://www.piclist.com/#archives for details.