If I solder and re-solder on a pad a half-dozen times, it will lift=20 eventually. Perhaps you're overheating the board as it is? Try the very= =20 slowest setting. No need for anything too fast as the board drills quite= =20 quickly. Yes, plan ahead, or look for those eyelets Chris L. just mentioned. I've= =20 never found a source for them in the US, so haven't bothered to try. But= if=20 I get my hands on some, I definitely will. It's the last step in making=20 fully professional boards. Cheers, -Neil. On Thursday 24 April 2003 20:04, Jai Dhar wrote: > Well, I'm using a good quality Dremel Multipro tool with the drill stan= d, > but not on the highest speed setting or anything. I'm on the 3rd settin= g > out of 10, and the reason I do'nt go higher is because smoke is coming = out > of the board when I drill a hole, heh. I'm afraid if I go faster, it wi= ll > light the board on fire or melt it :-) But I will give it a try just to > see. As for the soldering, it seems that the best way to do it is plan = a > bit ahead, or place vias near it. It's a shame because it took so much = work > to do my current board, I don't want to do it again :-( I guess you lea= rn > these things along the way.... > > Quoting Picdude : > > Sounds like a problem with the brand or PCB you're using, or perhaps = a > > bad (dull) drill bit...? I have not had this problem, using > > harbor-freight drill > > > > bits, and a drill press operating at about 1000 rpm. > > > > Many techniques to solder w/o plated-thru holes.... > > - Suspend part about 1/4" (more or less depending on part) above boar= d so > > you > > > > have access to solder the top. Works well for me, except I question= the > > mechanical hold on the part if I'm going to use the board in a vehicl= e, > > etc. - Tin the leads on the part, solder same as above, then slowly p= ush > > the part > > > > down while keeping the lead heated, and sort of "squish" the solder o= n.=20 > > I've > > > > had poor results with this. > > - Design the board so that the pads are mostly on the bottom, except > > where you > > know you have access to the top (like vertically-mounted axial caps, > > etc). I > > > > always do this nowadays and it definitely solves a lot of problems. > > - Add additional vias just outside of the component pads and componen= t > > dimensions for the connection. > > > > > > Cheers, > > -Neil. > > > > On Thursday 24 April 2003 19:20, Jai Dhar wrote: > > > Hello all, > > > > > > I just finished my first double sided board using UV to transfer t= he > > > tracks. The board turned out really well, except I'm having a probl= em > > > > while > > > > > drilling. When drilling holes that don't have a track attached (ie: > > > just a pad), the pad lifts off the board and goes onto the drill bi= t? > > > It really isn't a HUGE problem since there is no track attached, bu= t I > > > do lose a soldering point... which brings me to my next question. > > > > > > Are there any techniques used for soldering a component on both si= des > > > of the board? What I mean is that it's easy to solder the bottom s= ide > > > of the board since it's just the component leads that stick out... = but > > > on the top side, I have to sorta squeeze the iron between the board= and > > > the component - this can easily burn the component, and it looks ki= nd > > > of messy since the component isn't all the way down against the boa= rd. > > > But I can't think of any other way to solder it to the top tracks??= ? I > > > hope I have explained myself clearly, > > > > > > Thank you, > > > > > > Jai > > > > > > > > > > > > ---------------------------------------- > > > This mail sent through www.mywaterloo.ca > > > > -- > > http://www.piclist.com hint: The PICList is archived three different > > ways. See http://www.piclist.com/#archives for details. > > ---------------------------------------- > This mail sent through www.mywaterloo.ca -- http://www.piclist.com hint: The PICList is archived three different ways. See http://www.piclist.com/#archives for details.