I'd say the most flexible option would be to install conduit (ideally 1.5= or 2" dia - plastic waste pipe would be pretty cheap) with at least a couple of access points in = each room. As well as the wiring you can think of now, also put nylon cord through the conduit to = make it easy to pull wires through later. 2" may sound a lot, but pulling wires through a conduit = that's more than half full gets much harder with each additional cable, especially on the bends.=20 When I built a workshop at the bottom of the garden, I installed a run of= 4 inch sewer pipe (in addition to the power, water and gas supplies), and it's now getting = quite hard to pull new wires through - I'm about to get broadband and instead of pulling a cat5 cable = I'll be using a BNC to 10base T hub to convert an existing run of RG58 in the pipe.....=20 On Fri, 3 Jan 2003 10:36:51 +1000, you wrote: >and dont forget at least one RG59BU for cameras in any rooms you may = want >them in later and instead of using cat 5, I would go with cat 6 now so = you >get higher bandwidth for down the track. If you locate your security = cables >now you wont be tempted later to say oh well that'll do for locations = coz >its easy to get to instead of going for the most effective location like= you >will now. unless you were going to run your cables in conduits all along >then I wouldnt bother for the added cost and hassle of doing it you may = as >well go with the cables now. > >good luck > >JJ > >PS. I hate doing conduit work :-) >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Robert Rolf" >To: >Sent: Friday, January 03, 2003 7:50 AM >Subject: Re: [OT]: any design Idea in new house. > > >> I would make a point of running 1 " conduit stubs through the top >> and bottom wall plates for every room wall >> so that I could add what I need later by coming down from the >> attic, or up from below. Typically most basements are initially = unfinished >so >> you have lots of open space to run your wires once you figure out how >> you'll use the house. The stubs are particularly handy for outside = walls >> since they are a bugger to get at to drill later, and they can service >> two rooms at once. This keeps your initial costs down while you figure= out >> exactly what layout works for you. You can also put them every 4' with >> minimal cost impact. >> >> And since most homes have their utility panels on the outside wall = where >> power/cable/telephone enter, it makes sense to home run each room = there. >> Yes, it costs more wire, but it's much easier to make changes later = unless >you >> put in a central wiring closet (and that room always gets turned into >storage >> and you can't easily get in to fix things later). >> >> Robert >> >> Wagner Lipnharski wrote: >> > >> > Andre Abelian wrote: >> > > Hi to all engineers, >> > > >> > > Sorry if I didn't use proper tag. >> > > I am building 500 s.f. 2 rooms and bathroom and >> > > Finally the frame work is done and I was wondering >> > > Before I put drywalls on if any body has any idea >> > > To add some electronics in there like wires, sensors etc. >> > > Any recommendation will appreciate. >> > > >> > > >> > > Andre. >> > >> > Hi Andre, >> > no matter what you plan to do, there are few cables I would install = in >case >> > I was in your shoes; >> > >> > At least 3 Cat5 cables from a center distribution to every room >> > At least 2 coax video cable from the same center distribution to = every >room >> > At least 3 pairs of speaker wires >> > >> > Leave enough loops of wire into the walls, so if you need to pull = few >> > meters of cable out of the wall or move to another wall spot, there = will >be >> > cable enough for that. >> > >> > The 3 Cat5 can be used for data, phone, intercom, music, whatever = you >want. >> > >> > The video coax could be used for cameras, video or even "channel 3 = RF" >if >> > necessary. >> > >> > The speakers for sure to drive low impedance speakers, so ticker = than >AWG22 >> > is required. >> > >> > One thing most people forget is about remote-remote control, you can >always >> > buy IR-RF-_-RF-IR remote control converters, but nothing that a pair= or >> > wires can't transport 40kHz modulation from a bedroom to the family = room >to >> > control the stereo or the satelite receiver. >> > >> > Remember to "teach" the electric designer to remember where in your >house >> > you PLAN to have heavy power pig units. It is a shame how some = engineers >> > just "forget" that some people's equipment WILL consume around 1kW = just >for >> > audio and video. Sometimes you NEED to remember the engineer that = your >> > family room will consume energy as much (if not more) than your = regular >> > kitchen appliances. If in doubt, tell him you WILL have an electric >stove >> > and a dish washing machine into the family room, so he can design = the >wires >> > apropriately. >> > >> > Other than that, you can plan special cables for satelite LNB into = the >> > walls, and plan some RJ45 connectors in some strategic points where >> > computers or servers could be installed, but you will never know, = right? >a >> > comptuer into the bathroom could be, sometimes, very important, so = you >> > never lost the email durint that important time you dedicate into >that... >> > daily half an hour... education, everyone does. >> > >> > W. >> > >> > -- -- http://www.piclist.com hint: PICList Posts must start with ONE topic: [PIC]:,[SX]:,[AVR]: ->uP ONLY! [EE]:,[OT]: ->Other [BUY]:,[AD]: ->Ads