Spehro Pefhany wrote: > > Small eyelets, but the holes (and by extension, probably the pads) > have to be made oversize. Rick C. wrote: > > ... I just don't push them all the way in and use a solder > pencil to reach under the component to the pad. Of course mechanical > g-forces may work on the component but adequate for prototyping. Another > trick I use, as long as there aren't too many, is that I take a very > thin 30 ga wirewrap type wire and push it thru a hole, lay the wire > ... Ray Gallant wrote: > ... > I typically insert two 30 or 36 AWG or smaller bare wire in the > hole. Since there are two wires, the solder should flow through. Things are tight in this circuit and one result of this is that pad OD's are not much bigger than the corresponding ID's. (Space is at a premium in the enclosure.) So drilling the pads open a bit for eyelets or other wires is not going to be easy, or even possible. [ PCB was originally designed expecting to go to a proto-house but I really want to get it done before leaving town tomorrow. ] I've just tried a couple things, and the best answer is that of leaving the components a bit higher off the board and getting in there with a small pencil iron. I do have some space behind the board, so in some cases (depending on which side the signals connect to) I'm going to mount the components on the back of the board. I have space on the back since I had already planned to mount the TO-220 components on the back for easier heatsinking. Since this board will be in a car, I'll probably have to pour on some epoxy, hot-glue or similar to secure the components better. Thanks, -Neil. -- http://www.piclist.com hint: The PICList is archived three different ways. See http://www.piclist.com/#archives for details.