> -----Original Message-----
> From: pic microcontroller discussion list
> [mailto:PICLIST@MITVMA.MIT.EDU]On Behalf Of Roman Black
> Sent: Monday, 9 December 2002 3:15 PM
> To: PICLIST@MITVMA.MIT.EDU
> Subject: Re: [EE]: Comments wanted on PCB prototyping idea.
>
>
> H. Carl Ott wrote:
> >
> > At 02:26 PM 12/8/2002, you wrote:
> > >Do you have any  recommendation as to which HP
> > >laser printer works out best?
>
> >   That dyna-art vacuum box is certainly interesting. But I'm not sure it
> > will fix the problem. You really want something to not just
> melt the toner
> > but to get it to reflow slightly.
> >    I'd like to hear some first hand experiences with it.
> >   It is cheaper then the super-fuser dyna-art sells.
>
>
> Hi Carl, don't use a laser printer!! It's not the
> best way. I have a friend that uses a different
> method and i've seen his boards.
>
> Use a PHOTOCOPIER. You can print the artwork on
> any laser or bubblejet, then go to a copy house
> and photocopy on DARK. A photocopier puts down
> a much heavier toner layer than a laserprinter.
> Then iron on the PCB and it's ready for etching.
>
> If you use good qual laser paper (fluffless)
> for the first artwork sheet and the photocopy
> they come out very nice. :o)
> -Roman

I would have to disagree. I use a Brother HL-1440

I set it to graphics mode 1200x600 dpi. I print on to tracing paper which is
50GSM (the heavier stuff works better I am told, but mine does not distort).

I have made ~25 PCB's with this method and never had a problem (I use a
professional uv artwork box) and Kinston (IIRC) pre sensitised PCB's.

Regards.

Kat.

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