=46ine as long as you can afford it.=20 Look inside almost any consumer product and you will see the lengths they go to to avoid using a double sided PCB - loads of wire-links, ink-printed tracks etc. I'd agree that SS PCBs are nowhere near as rugged, especially with heavy components, but for a huge number of applications they are fine, IF carefully designed.=20 On Sun, 24 Nov 2002 08:28:39 -0700, you wrote: >Being an old guy, having worked with commercial >1-sided PCBs in the past, I feel that I need to pass >my 2-cents to people attempting 1-sided PCBs. The >2-cents is: don't waste money on 1-sided boards. > >A PCB must perform two, unrelated tasks: (1) it must >interconnect the components, and (2) it must rigidly >MOUNT (hold in place) the components. > >A 1-sided board makes a fair attempt at the first requirement, >in that wire jumpers can be installed to eliminate top-side traces, >but it fails miserably to properly mount the components. The leads >of all components are passed through the board and only contact >the bottom copper traces through a small solder blob about 30 mils = thick. >That blob has little strength, and the connection can withstand very >little vibration or flexing. Commercially, in years past the board was >dipped in shellac to strengthen the physical resistance to vibration, = but >that lessens its ability to accept flexing. > >A 2-sided PCB, on the other hand, has an interconnect from a pad on >top to a similar pad on the bottom, with a hole lined with copper at = least >1/16" long+ a 1/16" blob. When a component is passed through that and >soldered and the hole filled with solder, the solder connection is 100x >stronger than that of single-sided boards. Vibration tests done at TI in >1960 proved to us that 2-sided boards could sustain 1Khz 5G swings (some >components could >not, though). > >These days, the best way to make a prototype is to send it to somebody = who >can make a decent 2-sided, 1-oz PCB with good feedthru holes. Its worth = the >money, it really is. > >--Bob >EDTec LLC > > > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Josh Koffman" >To: >Sent: Sunday, November 24, 2002 1:18 AM >Subject: [EE]: Single Sided Boards - How do you do it? > > >> Well, after much work and some heartache, I have created my first = board >> in Eagle. Now we'll see if I can transfer it to the Press-n-Peel and >> etch and drill properly. Anyway, Since this is my first time with = Eagle, >> first time with Press-n-Peel, and my first time etching a board at all >> in quite a while, I decided to only make a single sided board. Pity >> though, since Eagle routed my board perfectly with two layers. So, = Eagle >> couldn't figure out a way to produce a single sided board with all the >> nets routed. Not a problem, I spent many an hour manually rerouting >> stuff. My question is this: How do you deal with jumper wires? I = dropped >> spare pads down and routed to the pad, skipped a section, then dropped >> another pad and routed from there. I am left with an airwire across >> where the jumper would be. However, is there a better way? I searched >> around in the Help and I couldn't seem to find anything. Does anyone >> have a better way to do this? >> >> Thanks, >> >> Josh >> -- >> A common mistake that people make when trying to design something >> completely foolproof is to underestimate the ingenuity of complete >> fools. >> -Douglas Adams >> >> -- >> http://www.piclist.com hint: The list server can filter out subtopics >> (like ads or off topics) for you. See http://www.piclist.com/#topics >> >> >> -- http://www.piclist.com hint: The list server can filter out subtopics (like ads or off topics) for you. See http://www.piclist.com/#topics